The odd couple

At Sweet Revenge, a chocolate cupcake is washed down with a glass of Rioja. (
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Care for some vino with your wings? At Southern Hospitality, it’s a yummy combo. (Zandy Mangold)

Tori Matthews chows down on fried chicken and bubbly at Hill Country Chicken. (jonathan baskin)

What could be better than a burger with onion rings and tater tots? A burger with onion rings, tater tots — and a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. (The “Bash” burger at Burger & Barrel is featured here.) (jonathan baskin)

Oysters and Chablis. Lamb and Bordeaux. Fried pickle chips and sparkling rosé?

Yup, you read that right. The seemingly oddball wine-and-food pairing is just one of many you’ll find on the wine list at the brand-new location of Southern Hospitality in Hell’s Kitchen, curated by gonzo wine expert Gary Vaynerchuk.

“It’s like potato chips and Coca-Cola for grown-ups,” says director of operations Chris Russell of the match.

Meaning it’s tasty, approachable and fun — a lot like the democratic wine lists that are currently popping up around the city.

“Wine should be an extension of dinner. For me, it’s the one drink that can really enhance what you’re eating — whatever you’re eating,” says Natalie Tapken, wine director of SoHo’s three-month-old Burger & Barrel, which hosts burger-and-wine pairing nights.

“I don’t think it should be something that only a few people can have. That’s my goal, to make [wine] accessible.”

And now that wine is an integral part of New York dining culture, the old rules are being thrown out the window. Whether you prefer hamburgers to foie gras or fried chicken to roast quail, you’re no longer limited to a round of brewskies.

“There’s a demand from the people,” says Aldo Sohm, sommelier at Midtown’s four-star Le Bernardin. “Restaurants wouldn’t [offer these kinds of pairings] if the demand wasn’t there.”

But the new odd couples aren’t necessarily an anything-goes affair.

“Regardless of whether you like the wine, the wine must elevate the food and the food must elevate the wine,” says Sohm.

Still, he welcomes those serendipitous moments when an unexpected match does just that.

“[As a result], I always suggest to keep trying and exploring,” he adds.

We turned to the Austrian-born sommelier — named “Best Sommelier in the World” in 2008 — for his take on the latest high-low pairings offered around town.

HOT DOGS & PINK BUBBLES


Bark,
474 Bergen St., Park Slope; 718-789-1939

“We had to find wines that work with high-fat, high-acid food,” explains Josh Sharkey, co-owner of this Park Slope hot dog joint with an eco-conscious bent, alt-rock soundtrack and rich, snappy wieners. “It was tough to find [affordable wines that] will work with sweet pepper relish and baked beans — it’s a fun challenge.”

The List: Brief, with a choice of rotating whites, reds and rosés, as well as rosé and brut sparklers served in a bucket with plastic flutes. On “Bubble Fridays,” the price of a half-bottle of Gruet sparkling wine goes from $18 to $12. Wine dinners are being planned for later this year.

Pairings: Bark Dog (sweet pepper relish, mustard, onion) or Bacon Cheddar Dog (cheddar, bacon, pickled onion) and Gruet Rosé sparkling wine, NV, New Mexico ($18 half-bottle; $12 on “Bubble Fridays”)

Sohm Says: “[The pairings] sort of make sense. The yeastiness of the sparkling wine goes with the bread. The higher acidity will work out the sweet flavor from the peppers. I would personally drink a beer or a dryer Muscat from Alsace.”

WINGS, WINE & WACKINESS

Southern Hospitality, 645 Ninth Ave.; 212-265-1000

The brand-new Hell’s Kitchen branch of BBQ joint Southern Hospitality houses a dark, cozy downstairs lounge — perfect for sampling pours curated by outsized wine personality Gary Vaynerchuk, whose list officially debuts next week. “I want to make people feel comfortable — there are plenty of places to go if you want to be intimidated by wine,” he says, noting his plans to have a Thursday night presence at the restaurant.

The List: Approachable, adventurous and well-balanced, with plenty of aromatic, high-acid whites. “Great wine comes in all sorts of prices,” says Vaynerchuk. “I’ve been asked to do three-star wine lists, [but I chose this project] because I want wine to be more fun.” Sample tasting note: “Argentinean Malbec is hotter than Mila Kunis right now.”

Pairings: Hot wings or fried pickle chips and Hesketh “The Proposition” sparkling rosé, NV, South Australia ($37 bottle); hot wings and Chateau Les Fromenteaux Muscadet, 2009, Loire Valley ($37 bottle); fried pickle chips and Joostenberg “Little J White” Chenin Blanc, 2010, South Africa ($9 glass/$25 bottle)

Sohm Says: “The sparkling rosé is a cool choice thanks to its acidity, its freshness and its fruit. I can also see the Chenin Blanc. You need acid to digest fried food unless you plan on having a whiskey after. Pairing bone-dry Muscadet with spicy fare is a bold but creative move that goes against logic and rules, but Gary is always groundbreaking and ready to push the envelope. The sweet and spicy yin and yang of a Moscato (Two Hands “Brilliant Disguise” Moscato, 2009, Australia; $44 bottle) is a more conservative pairing.”

RUSTIC PATTIES & FINE POURS

Burger & Barrel, 25 W. Houston St.; 212-334-7320

This American pub showcases a serious wine list curated by sommelier Natalie Tapken. “The great thing about wine is that you get boundless pairing options,” says Tapken. “I think the more creative and versatile you can be, the more fun we all have eating out.” Monthly burger-and-wine nights showcase the pours of a visiting winemaker, with customers permitted to spend as much or as little as they like. On March 15, the owners and winemaker from Napa’s Robert Biale Vineyards will offer by-the-glass selections.

The List: “Classically delicious” wines at every price point — including wines on tap and a “wine of the day” from a small producer that’s rarely offered by the glass ($7 to $50 a glass). “You can pair different [wines] with each burger and have a lot of fun,” says Tapken. “I love the versatility.”

Pairings: Braised short-rib tacos and Turley Cinsault, 2008, California ($12 glass); “Bash-Style” burger (caramelized onion, bacon jam, pickles, American cheese and special sauce) and Arietta “Quartet” Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008, Napa Valley ($30 glass); mushroom and Gruyere burger with caramelized onions and Dijonaise and Penner-Ash Pinot Noir, 2007, Oregon ($20 glass)

Sohm Says: “Overall, these are very thoughtful combinations that reflect the selections of a top-level sommelier. The Pinot Noir is an unconventional choice that works — earthy with a little richer fruit to complement the caramelized onions, and some acidity to cut through the fattiness of the burger. The Cinsault is super — it’s a wine for hanging out with friends and having a great time, and it will brighten up the richness of the braised short ribs.”

FRIED CHICKEN & ‘POP’

Hill Country Chicken, 1123 Broadway; 212-257-6446

This new sister eatery to Hill Country BBQ offers two kinds of juicy fried chicken — a classic seasoned bird, as well as a skinless version with a crispy cracker crust known as “Mama El’s.” Downstairs, you’ll find a vintage rec room for drinking canned beer and wine out of Solo cups — “just like grandpa’s basement,” explains general manager Andrew King.

The List: Quirky and short (two whites, two reds and one sparkler), with selections “that trigger the memories of a family reunion experience,” says King. That includes affordable yet drinkable box and sparkling wine that’s “just like Pop Rocks” when matched with fried chicken, he adds.

Pairings: Mama El’s fried chicken and Gruet Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine, NV, New Mexico ($16 half-bottle/$30 bottle); Hill Country Classic fried chicken and Bandit Pinot Grigio, California ($5/$14 box); bourbon-pecan pie and 25 Lagunas Malbec, 2008, Argentina ($6 glass/$24 bottle)

Sohm Says: “I’m always a fan of pairing sparkling wine with fried food. The Gruet is a great idea — the acidity will cut through the fat, and sparkling wine has a touch more residual sugar than regular wine. It’s the same thinking that goes behind serving foie gras with Sauternes. On the other hand, the Malbec is too tannic and concentrated, even if it is popular with the restaurant’s late-night set.”

WINE, WOMEN & CUPCAKES

Sweet Revenge, 62 Carmine St.; 212-242-2240

Cupcakes and milk, sure, but cupcakes and wine? “[In the beginning,] people looked at me like I had two heads,” concedes Marlo Scott, owner of this sweet and sassy Village café specializing in delicious, rustic-looking cupcakes. “But then someone would take a leap of faith and love it.”

The List: “I don’t know about [wine] rules. It all comes down to, does it taste good or not?” says Scott, who offers an eclectic list for casual wine drinkers — the $3.50 cupcakes steal the show here. A weekday happy hour from 4 to 8 p.m. includes a glass of sangria, Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc and a cupcake for $10.

Pairings: “Pure” cupcake (vanilla cake with vanilla butter cream) and Principato Pinot Noir, Italy ($10 glass/$40 bottle);”Dirty” cupcake (Valrhona cake with dark chocolate truffle) and Campo Burgo Crianza Rioja, Spain ($10 glass/$40 bottle); “Crimson & Cream” cupcake (raspberry red velvet cake with cream-cheese frosting) and raspberry bellini ($10)

Sohm Says: “The raspberry bellini I can see — the sweet flavor will complement the cream cheese beautifully. Instead of the reds — tannins and sugar will register as astringent on the palate — consider the cupcakes with a fortified wine such as Maury from France or a sweet Recioto della Valpolicella from Italy.”