French twist
Ever heard of Abymes? Never mind. All you need to know is that this floral, rounded white, hailing from a remote French Alpine region, is summer in a glass. At Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (249 Centre St.; 212-343-3660), a chic, yet cozy, new wine bar in Nolita, try the 2013 from Domaine Labbé ($11). It’s a perfect bar partner to a salad of beets, radishes, almonds and goat cheese ($12). Or head uptown to the oft-packed, high-decibel ABV (1504 Lexington Ave.; 212-722-8959) for an Abymes from Jean Perrier et Fils ($11). “It’s hard for the wine to break through the noise,” says ABV owner Michael Faircloth. This one does.
Not your average rosé
In the mood for something rosy that’s not run-of-the-mill pink plonk? At Corkbuzz (13 E. 13th St.; 646-873-6071) in Greenwich Village, wine guru Laura Maniec is pouring a rare Basque beauty from a northerly, tongue-twisting Spanish wine region called Txakolina (pronounced “chocko-lina”) from producer Ameztoi Rubentis ($13). The wines of Txakolina typically have a bit of spritz and a whole lot of scintillation. It’s there in spades in this rosé.
Offbeat Italian
On a hot summer night, skip Williamburg’s newer, trendier and more crowded spots and head over to D.O.C. (83 N. Seventh St., Brooklyn; 718-963-1925), a rustic Italian wine bar that’s been in the neighborhood for years and has an all-Italian wine list rich in summer vinos you’ve probably never tasted. On the lighter side, try the honeysuckle-scented Müller-Thurgau from Trentino ($12). More intense, but not heavy, is the Langhe Bianco from top Piedmont grower Paolo Scavino ($12); it’s smooth and whispering of toasted hazelnuts.
On tap
The freshest wine in all of Manhattan is being poured at City Winery’s Barrel Room (155 Varick St.; 212-608-0555), where 11 wines are pumped directly from the winery’s tanks into your glass and spared the sulfite dosage that most bottled wines get, as well as the long transport in uncertain conditions from faraway wineries. Freshest of all is the gold-hued Uptown Riesling from the Finger Lakes ($11), sailing along on a lemon-lime wind of flavor.
On acid
Head to Bushwick to little-known, pub-style Tutu’s (25 Bogart St., Brooklyn; 718-456-7898) for some refreshing sips that pack a little bit of pucker. “For summer wines, we’re trying to get higher up the acidity spectrum,” says Jason Merritt, Tutu’s co-owner. That extra kick of acidity, versus fuller-bodied wines that are lower in acidity, is like the difference between a tart lime sorbet and Häagen-Dazs dulce de leche ice cream. Which one would you prefer when the pavement’s steaming? Try the Côtes de Gascogne white from Domaine Saint-Lannes ($8) and its worthy rival, a Spanish Rueda from Vevi ($10). Either will kick up the flavor of Tutu’s very fresh oysters on the half shell (two dozen for $24), and the reasonable prices are equally refreshing.