Food & Drink

Sprinkles’ cupcakes taste mostly of sugar

Yes, they’re made with Mother Earth-pure, preservatives- and trans-fat-free, fancy-pants ingredients like Nielsen-Massey Madagascar bourbon vanilla, fresh bananas and natural citrus zest.

But Sprinkles Cupcakes (except for a few artificially sweetened choices) taste mainly of one thing: sugar.

Six samples were all I could take at one sitting. The best was “triple cinnamon.” Although I don’t know what “triple” means, the spice was nicely balanced through cake and icing. Mocha revealed a persuasive coffee base.

But the icky-sweets made natural banana taste artificial. “Black and white” tasted more black than white, but mainly gray. Lemon meringue, though not too tart, was paste on the tongue. Chocolate marshmallow poses no threat to a Mallomar.

We’ll see if the cupcakes make health-mad locals give up tofu. If not, there are enough tourists from Fat America to keep the machine humming.