Les Caves des Fondus
20 Prince St.; 212-966-5073 (no reservations)
Sipping wine from a baby bottle may sound like a fraternity prank, but it’s the way wine is served at the newly opened Les Caves des Fondus. Jacques Ouari, who fell for a similar concept called Les Refuges des Fondus while on vacation in Paris, owns this snug 40-seat subterranean den on Prince Street, where he’s outfitted his fondue and wine cellar with communal farmhouse tables that you have to climb over – or under – to get to the banquette on the other side.
Must-have meal: A biberon (yes, that would be a baby bottle) of red wine ($8) with La Fondue Savoyarde (a blend of fine Swiss, Gruyere and Comté cheese; $23 per person, served with bread, ham and green salad); side of frites ($6); and, for dessert, Valrhona chocolate fondue with fresh fruit ($10).
Soundtrack: French and American standards by Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel, Charles Aznavour and Louis Armstrong.
Hours: Mon.-Wed. and Sun., 6 p.m.-1 a.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 6 p.m.-2 a.m.
Bar Breton
254 Fifth Ave.; 212-213-4999
The cuisine of Brittany is the focus of this new Flatiron area brasserie, where chef Cyril Renaud (of Fleur de Sel) has decorated the all-day spot with a supply of antiques, giving it a rustic, French farmhouse charm. The menu offers 50 white and 50 red global wines, along with apple ciders and a selection of niacs (snacks) such as salt-baked potatoes with veal cheeks and Parmesan chips ($8). Plus, there’s Renaud’s signature galetttes (organic buckwheat crepes) filled with everything from Gruyere and ham, to smoked salmon, with horseradish cream and chives. In addition, 5 percent of Bar Breton’s annual profits will go to Citymeals-on-Wheels.
Must-have meal: French green bean salad with roasted tomatoes, hazelnuts and fresh mint ($11); a gruyere and ham galette with sunny-side-up egg ($16); striped bass cooked on the plancha with bacon, chervil, walnuts and balsamic ($25); and, for dessert, crepes with lemon and sugar ($7).
Soundtrack: French artists like Claude Francois, Dalida and Edith Piaf.
Hours: Breakfast: Mon.-Fri., 7-11:30 a.m.; Lunch: Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Dinner: Sun.-Thus., 4-11 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 4 p.m.-midnight; Brunch: Sat. and Sun., 10 a.m.-4 p.m.