The inspiration of the season for Joanna Mastoianni was one Iris Apfel, the 90-year-old “rare bird” fashion figure whose wardrobe was once the subject of a Costume Institute exhibit at the Met.
The first look was an edgy black dress embroidered with leather, big square pewter metal squares and beads on organza, with a feather-trimmed hem, worn with matching finger-less “evening gloves” edged with feathers and embroidered with beads and jewels. (These gloves appeared in variations throughout the show.)
Wintry jackets and dresses followed, printed with bare tree branches on delicate silver and worn with tall marabou hats. A series of draped liquid-metal chenille dresses showed it was the mix of textures that made everything work.
The Apfel inspiration was not translated literally, but there were still plenty of references to some of Iris’ favorite things, like the supersized accessories. Feathered neckpieces stood out a good six inches from models’ necks, as did the feather bracelets. Other neck ornamentation referenced African jewelry, which Apfel has collected in her travels. A sheer black caftan was edged in gold leaf detail.
“It’s all about playing, and having fun,” said Mastroianni backstage after the show. “It was all about textures, and dimensions, and developing new techniques” of embroidery, which she does in-house.
It was a fabulous, exuberant collection, and the most touching moment came at the end, when Mastroianni took her bow, then trotted down the runway to pull Apfel to her feet so she could be recognized. At first the older woman refused, looking embarrassed, but then acquiesced and let Mastroianni pull her to her feet and onto the runway. As they took a bow together, the crowd cheered, then rose to its feet.