Travel

First look: Legoland Florida

It is not very often that a theme park opens in Orlando. The last one was 13 years ago, with 1999’s Islands of Adventure, at Universal. It just so happens that when Legoland Florida opens on Saturday, it will not only be the newest Florida park, but also the oldest. That’s because it’s on the grounds of the theme park that put Central Florida mass tourism on the map: 1936’s Cypress Gardens.

The new iteration of that beloved park is a godsend for parents who crave high-quality family fun with none of the competitiveness and quasi-military tactical planning that a day at Disney demands.

The old Cypress Gardens park, a lakeside idyll of Spanish moss and century-old banyan trees, was stripped of its dated antebellum references but still evokes Old Florida botanicals in a grandma-approved area. Meanwhile, the pyramids of athletic maidens who once water skied in pyramid formation have been replaced by ski jumping, socket-headed “Minifigures” that look like Lego’s iconic plastic people.

Legoland now operates five parks worldwide, and the experience shows in bold primary colors, whimsical flourishes (giant photo-op figures constructed from you-know-what), and fun foods such as “Granny’s Apple Fries,” dusted with sugar and cinnamon and served with whipped cream dipping sauce.

The core of the 150-acre lakeside park, and one that had kids literally squealing with awe, is “Miniland,” in which Lego artists have constructed sprawling, mechanized versions of American landmarks. New York City, which took eight builders 1,731 hours to make, has been done right, down to hippies on the lawn in Central Park and a 21-foot Empire State Building.

There’s an assortment of unique rides, too, such as Aqua Wave Racers (twist your boat’s rudder to catch the water and spin outward), the Royal Joust (a Coney Island Steeplechase affair), and a Ford-sponsored, rail-free auto course that teaches kids how to obey stops signs and traffic lights.

The ripply expanse of Lake Eloise (mind the gnats, by the way) typifies this part of Florida. There are still signs warning of alligators, which dwell in the waters. In addition, Cypress Gardens bequeathed Legoland with plenty of mature shade trees, a welcome amenity on those interminably hot days.

The distance from Disney’s Epcot to Winter Haven, the home of Legoland, is 35 miles, as far as Hollywood is from Disneyland. That distance never deterred people in California. But breaking out of the Walt Disney World’s gravitational pull will be hard for tourists whom the Mouse tempts into vacationing without cars.

Mindful of that obstacle, Legoland has set up $10, 45-minute shuttle service from Orlando Premium Outlets, on Disney’s doorstep. The trip is worth it. No other theme park around Orlando — and there are nine now — caters as completely to kids aged 2 to 12, and none of its rides, not even the ones that imitate grown-up adrenaline thrills such as the floorless Flying School coaster, is too intense for kiddos in the target age bracket.

There are also more chances for hands-on activities than in line-’em-up Orlando, such as the Pinewood Derby-style Build & Test, where kids build Lego cars and then test their handiwork on punishing six-foot ramps, and the Rescue Academy, which pits four families against each other in hand pump-powered vehicles.

Funnily enough, Lego’s top-shelf licensing deals mean that its Orlando competition’s biggest characters also make appearances: Harry Potter, Toy Story, Star Wars, SpongeBob, and Disney’s pirates are all here in toy form. Plus, of course, enough souvenir Lego blocks to bruise parents’ bare feet back home for the rest of their days.

Will easygoing Legoland’s multicolored bricks give the Mouse a black eye? No, but if parents give it a chance and give it a day, it will mark a welcome return of the low-pressure family outing to the honky-tonk Orlando vacation scene.

Adults $65, $55 for children 3-12 and seniors. More information at legoland.com.