It was big, dark and menacing. And it was getting closer.
No, it wasn’t a storm cloud, or a howler monkey, or any one of the enormous insects that make their home in Nicaragua. It was Cerro Negro (translation: Black Hill), a 2,214-foot-tall volcano made up of nothing but charcoal-colored rock and ash, without so much as a weed sprouting from its moonscape-like surface.
And I was on our way to slide down it — with gear made for snow, not volcanic rubble.
Volcano boarding (also called ashboarding) is one of the fastest growing tourist attractions in the Reserva Natural Complejo Volcánico Pilas El Hoyo, 5,288 acres of protected land outside the colonial city of Leon. Cerro Negro is one of only a few of places in the world where you can attempt the daredevil sport.
Thirty minutes into a bone-rattling ride in the back of an ancient Land Rover, we were still another half-hour from Cerro Negro’s base. Yet it loomed ahead the entire way, growing ominously larger as the antiquated SUV bounced over the unpaved road, occasionally pulling over to let an ox-drawn cart pass.
When we finally pulled up to a small shack to pick up our equipment, it was already late afternoon.
“This is better,” our guide assured us. “It is not as hot out, so the bottom of your shoes won’t melt.”
For whatever reason, he’d neglected to mention that the black rock can reach scalding temperatures after a day under the hot Nicaraguan sun. And that we’d be hauling along the 10-pound board on the hour-long climb. Oh, and that Cerro Negro was still quite active: It had erupted 23 times since its birth (in 1850), the last was in 1999.
When was it due for another eruption, I asked.
“About every 10 years there is volcanic activity,” he answered.
I’m no math major but even I could figure out it was quite a few years overdue.
Nevertheless, we grabbed the snowboards (one person opted for a “sled,” basically a piece of plywood with a rope on the front), and began our ascent up the eastern side of the volcano.
There was no clearly marked path, just a seemingly endless expanse of pumice-like rocks so light they shifted beneath our feet with every step. This made the steep climb, difficult with the unwieldy boards, even more of a challenge.
But the bigger challenge was yet to come. That awesome feeling of accomplishment one normally gets when reaching the summit was supplanted by another feeling — fear. The sun was sinking quickly, the wind was nearing what felt like gale-force and the path between the volcano’s outer edge and its crater, which emitted hot, smelly plumes of sulfur, was exceedingly narrow. My aversion to heights (and egg salad) started seriously kicking in.
In short, I was losing my nerve.
As the group started to make its way over to the sandier western side, I made my decision — I was heading down on foot instead. The guide nodded, took my board and gestured toward the tiny white dot that was the SUV and the footprints of the less-than-brave souls like myself.
I tucked my pant legs into my socks, tied a handkerchief over my mouth and nose and started down the pitch-black hillside in a sideways leaping motion. Pebbles flew into the air with each jump, the dust blackening every inch of me. But every few feet I would stop to take in the otherworldly scenery — the chain of nearby volcanoes stretching into the distance, the bright green jungle below, the sunset-kissed sky turning red, orange and deep pink.
The driver climbed up to meet me partway, trying to be positive by assuring me that one in 10 folks opt out. It was of little consolation, considering we were only a group of four. That is, until I caught sight of them — slowly, every so slowly, inching their way on their boards to the base of the volcano.
Pulling off their dusty knee and elbow pads, the three gave their verdict. Instead of a smooth, swift ride, the pebbly sand actually slowed them down; the sledder fell off several times and had minor scratches from the abrasive sand.
“I thought the highlight was actually the climb,” said one. Still, all confessed they were glad they’d tried it.
As we piled in for the long, bumpy ride back, ice-cold cervezas in hand, the driver turned on the CD player and out boomed Queen’s “We Are the Champions.” And everyone sang along to the rock anthem — “No time for losers, ’cause we are the champions, of the world!” — even me.
IF YOU GO: Guided tours are a must — unless you have an SUV and a snowboard handy. Prices start at around $30, plus entry fee to the preserve ($5). Try Bigfoot Nicaragua (bigfootnicaragua.com) and Va Pues Tours (vapues.com).
4 MORE ADVENTURES IN NICARAGUA
#1 Ride horses on “Survivor: Nicaragua” beaches Don’t believe those “Survivor” locations are remote? You will now. Take a half- or full-day ride with Rancho Chilamate across rivers, over cliffs, through forests (look for Howler Monkeys!) and arrive at the famous beach, where you can take off on your steed full-throttle. Then enjoy a shot of rum and a dip in the ocean. (Half-day tours start at $59; ranchochilamate.com)
#2 Zipline the Mombacho Volcano. The three-hour Café Las Flores Canopy Adventure (on the site of a coffee plantation) starts at 2,296 feet, with 16 platforms built into the rainforest, along with lots of thrilling extras like a walking wire (the “Double Cross”) and, for the true daredevil, a long vertical drop. (Three-hour tour, $34.50; cafelasflores.com)
#3 Kayak Lake Nicaragua. It’s the largest lake in Central America — so big that it even has sharks. Which makes kayaking a far better bet than swimming. Set out on a guided tour from the Jicaro Eco-lodge, on its own private island in the lake, and you’ll spot all sorts of cool birds and learn the story behind the two famous volcanic islands — Ometepe and Zapatera. (Rooms from $290, two-hour kayak tour, $30; jicarolodge.com)
#4 Paddleboard and snorkel in the Pacific Just steps from the ocean, the eco-lodge AquaNicaragua is a great base for enjoying all sorts of water-based activities. Its location along a sheltered cove makes it the perfect spot to try paddleboarding or eye a host tropical fish underwater. The hotel rents paddleboards and snorkeling gear by the hour, starting at $10. (Rooms from $185, aquanicaragua.com)