It’s safe to say that the Salamander Resort & Spa almost didn’t happen.
Nestled in the foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, an hour from the White House, the hotel, 11 years in the planning, was heavily delayed by everything from environmental concerns to the recession to local demands about the historic annual Middleburg Hunt.
But the 168-room property did debut this summer, thanks to the perseverance of its visionary founder Sheila Johnson — the co-founder of Black Entertainment Television and an executive producer of “The Butler” — who runs an empire spanning media, hospitality, sports and more.
And clearly, this lady is not only tenacious, she also has taste. Johnson, who owns a home nearby, has an affinity and respect for the area’s myriad charms and an impeccable eye for design.
Many of her personal pieces are now part of the Salamander’s decor — “I have a warehouse with furniture from houses I’ve owned,” she says. “My own antiques” — which include a tapestry once owned by Napoleon, a door-turned-table from an Iranian palace and a secretary from the early 1800s — “give the resort even deeper meaning.”
The result is a quietly, deeply posh place that has all the trappings of an upscale resort — with a twist. It not only has sumptuous rooms and suites, two restaurants and a cooking studio from Todd Gray and a spa, but also a first-class equestrian center, with a 22-box-stall stable, nine paddocks, 28,800-square-foot riding arena and hundreds of acres of trails.
And you don’t have to be an experienced equestrian to enjoy its offerings — beginners are welcome, too.
Set on 340 densely wooded acres, the brick and stucco resort is capped by high-pitched roofs and dormers — think Virginia manor on steroids — and is entered via a winding drive lined with saplings. Once inside, you’re enveloped in an equestrian-themed paradise, with details ranging from commanding paintings of horses to room numbers on plaques shaped like riding helmets.
Even better, the space feels more like a homey private residence than a conventional hotel. A light, airy Living Room has eggshell-blue walls, roomy couches and chairs, antiques and two huge stone fireplaces.
The library — all dark wood with walls of books, leather couches and yet another fireplace — is where you’ll want to read or have a cocktail.
Wide-planked oak floors feel vintage (they creak and they’re supple, which takes work when you’re building new), and the living room brings the outside in and inside out thanks to several French doors leading to a bluestone “grand terrace” with sweeping views of lawn, woods and rolling hills.
The lawn, not merely decorative, features two fire pits, a giant chess set and croquet.
Each floor has a seasonal theme (winter, spring, summer and fall) and the meticulously designed rooms include his-and-her closets, marble bathrooms (with body jets in the showers and pedestal tubs), Corinelli linens and 40-inch flat panel TVs.
As for the spa, this compound-like retreat includes 14 deluxe treatment rooms with outdoor space, aromatic steam rooms and an outdoor courtyard with a heated infinity-edge pool and separate hot tub open year-round.
Treatments include a scrub bar, peels, massage, and full-day packages like a Girlfriends Getaway (prices range from $45 to over $1,000 for a full day). The expertly run, light-filled fitness center also has an indoor pool. Resort guests can pay a facility fee ($40) to use the steam room and pool.
Horse person or not, head for the equestrian center. Offerings include riding lessons ($125) and Horses 101, where you’ll learn grooming, equine safety and more ($125). Everything, including trail rides, can be done year-round, weather permitting.
Middleburg is a growing wine region; some 50 wineries are within an hour of the resort. And Salamander’s restaurants take full advantage of their proximity by featuring top area vintners.
The menu at the clubby, casual Gold Cup Wine Bar, for instance, suggests wine pairings for each dish, and local wines are always included.
And it’s in the Gold Cup Wine Bar that one truly understands the resort’s non-stuffy vibe: Here you’ll find overnight visitors, day-trippers — and plenty of locals.
Being inclusive “was in our messaging,” says Johnson. “When doing something so new, especially in a community that hasn’t had any thing new in over 100 years, there’s skepticism and fear. [But once they] saw it and walked in, it was as if, yes, it’s a refuge, a place to sit down and relax.”
The fine-dining restaurant, Harriman’s, highlights local purveyors and seasonal ingredients, many of which are grown in the resort’s garden (feel free to roam it).
The food is top-notch, but service, while uniformly charming, can be spotty. Johnson admits there’s room for improvement. “We’re always tweaking our service, there are always little loopholes customers will complain about because service dropped a little bit,” she notes.
And there is always more to do. Plans include an outdoor ice skating rink and treehouse treatment rooms. “We want these little surprises,” Johnson says, “so that guests can come and experience those changes.”
Info: From $275 to $2,500