At the height of summer, thousands of cruise ship passengers descend every week onto the tiny town of Sitka, Alaska, for a few hours of sightseeing before heading to the next port of call.
However, the gentle charms of this island town, on the southern strip of the 49th state that borders British Columbia, are best discovered over the course of a few days when the crowds have thinned. There’s no better time to do it than this fall, as the people of Sitka commemorate the town’s central role in American history exactly 150 years ago: the purchase of Alaska from the Russians on Oct. 18, 1867.
Alaska Airlines flies to Sitka each day from Seattle (from $389 roundtrip; about four hours) on a commuter plane that stops either in Ketchikan or Juneau before reaching Sitka. The airport is located on Japonski Island and connected to Baranof Island, where most of the 9,000-person-strong population lives, by a small causeway. Most Sitka attractions are within walking distance of each other, so a car isn’t really necessary, though you’ll need to hail a cab to your hotel or arrange a courtesy pickup. Those arriving will be welcomed by locals dressed in 1860s garb, the first taste of what a big deal Alaska Day — Oct. 18 — is to the people of Sitka.
But before you learn about the Russians, the American takeover and what came to be known as “Seward’s Folly,” it’s important to understand that for millennia this was — and is still today — the land of the indigenous Tlingit people who make up roughly one-quarter of the town’s population.
Make your first stop the Sitka National Historical Park, which sits at the eastern end of Lincoln Street, a quick walk from the center of town along the picturesque harbor. Begin by hiking the loop trail lined with Tlingit and Haida totem poles carved by the local indigenous groups. The tradition of carving totems as memorials or to tell stories dates back centuries; the oldest totems here, such as the Raven/Shark Pole, were originally carved for the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition (a k a the St. Louis World’s Fair that honored that land acquisition’s centennial). As you walk, you can access a free audio tour via cellphone to hear each pole’s story; be sure to stop at the area that saw the Battle of Sitka in 1804, an early conflict between the Russians and the Kiks.ádi, the local Tlingit group.
Once back at the visitors’ center, take in the exhibition “Voices of Change: Perspectives on the Transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States,” where contemporary artists examine the impact of the purchase of Alaska from the native perspective.
On your way back toward the center of Sitka, stop at the Sheldon Jackson Museum on the campus of Sheldon Jackson College. It’s not only the oldest museum in Alaska, dating back to 1895, but it also houses one of the best collections of both Tlingit and other native artifacts from around the state. From Oct. 13 to 17, a conference is being held at the college, which brings together Alaska Native and First Nations tradition-bearers, elders and fluent speakers of indigenous languages with artists, academics, researchers and students. The event centers around the theme of “Haa Shagoon, Yei Sh Nataoosneix” (which translates to “Our History, We Are Healing Ourselves”).
A second day in Sitka can focus on the Russians. The Alaskan coast was first scoped by Russian traders in 1741, and permanent settlers came to Baranof Island in 1799. The Tlingit battled twice to keep the Russians at bay: first at the northern end of Baranof Island in 1802, where the natives were victorious, and then two years later at the spot now in the national park, where the Russians — backed by the armed frigate Neva — were able to gain a foothold despite strong Tlingit opposition.
The Russians established Sitka as the capital of Russian America, calling it New Archangel, and the town still has the biggest Russian presence in North America. Begin at the NPS-run Russian Bishop’s House (built in 1843), a great example of Russian wood-frame architecture that stands at the corner of Lincoln and Monastery Streets. Through Oct. 21, tours are offered regularly, and include the bishop’s private residence on the second floor, furnished as it would have been in the heyday of Russian America. Then, stroll two blocks down Lincoln Street to St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, established in 1844 and still an active parish (and one of 94 Russian Orthodox churches still remaining in Alaska). Today, most churchgoers are Tlingit. Over the years, Sitka was home to six individuals sainted by the Russian Orthodox church, which is, per capita, the highest number anywhere in the country. Inside the church, beautiful icons and displays of 19th-century liturgical items highlight the prominent role the church played in this small town.
Then, head to the Baranof Castle Hill State Historic Site between Harbor Way and Lincoln Street, near the bridge to the airport. This was the exact spot where, on that fateful day in October of 1867, the official handover of the territory from the Russians to the Americans took place. If you’ve timed your trip to Sitka to Oct. 18 precisely, you can witness a reenactment of the transfer on Castle Hill that afternoon, immediately following the annual Alaska Day Parade at 1:30 p.m.
In addition to the transfer ceremony, the week surrounding Alaska Day is chock-full of events, from a barn dance on Oct. 14 and the Sitka Historical Society Brew Cruise on Oct. 15 to more scholarly events such as a “The Treaty of Cession: Causes and Consequences” panel discussion at the University of Alaska Southeast on Oct. 17. That evening, there’s the Alaska Day Ball at Harrigan Centennial Hall. (Hey, the Facebook invitation says at least 30 people are attending!) For more information on events surrounding Alaska Day, visit SitkaHistory.com.
Don’t forget, all this rich history is set amongst some of the most stunning beauty in Alaska. Bald eagles fly overhead and humpback whales are easily spotted from shore between spring and fall, peaking in June and July. To see eagles up close, visit the Alaska Raptor Center ($13 per person), where injured birds are rehabilitated. For marine-life viewing, consider the “Sea Otter & Whale Quest” at Allen Marine Tours ($130 per person).
Hiking in the area abounds, including on well-marked trails that start right in town. The occasionally steep Gavan Hill Trail, at the end of Baranof Street, offers lovely scenery. But be aware: Autumn in Sitka means average high temperatures of just 47 degrees and overnight lows approaching freezing. You’ll have a great time outdoors, but pack accordingly!
The two biggest hotels in Sitka are the Totem Square Hotel & Marina (from $239) and the Westmark (from $245). More budget-friendly accommodations include the roomy and comfortable Sitka Hotel on Lincoln Street (from $135) just behind Castle Hill.
Happy Alaska Day!