Starting today, the budget carrier Norwegian (norwegian.com) launches direct flights from JFK to Bergen, Norway — the country’s second-largest city known as the “Gateway to the Fjords.” ( And by budget, we mean flights are as cheap as $189 one way.)
Dating back to the 11th century, Bergen was one of the world’s most important hubs for trade for nearly 400 years — starting in 1360 and lasting until a great fire destroyed much of the harbor town in 1702.
Today, the quaint Hanseatic wharf lined with colorful, crooked wood buildings — an area known as Bryggen (and a UNESCO world heritage site) — is Bergen’s biggest tourist attraction, but there’s much more to explore along its cobblestoned streets and beyond.
Here are our picks.
Fløibanen Funicular
Ok, so the lines can get a bit long, but trust us, it’s worth it — as long as you aren’t afraid of heights. In around six minutes you’ll be whisked to the top of Mount Floyen (one of seven mountains surrounding Bergen) for breathtaking views of the city from 1,050 feet up.
The funicular runs year-round and is open until midnight during the summer. The viewing platform was recently upgraded with underground heating — keeping you toasty on brisk evenings. (Round-trip tickets, $14.50; floibanen.com)
KODE art museums
This complex is comprised of four museums set alongside City Park, in the center of the city. Housing everything from Old Master paintings to silver artifacts to paintings from the Norwegian “Golden Age” to contemporary artwork, KODE is a wonderful way to explore the nation’s artistic heritage — and take a break from the crowds.
Don’t miss the Rasmus Meyer collection in KODE 3, which takes a broad look at everyone’s favorite angst-ridden artist, Edvard Munch. Upcoming special exhibits include “A Journey into the Classics” (June 20 to Aug. 24), with great works by Italian, French and Dutch painters including Tintoretto. (Admission, $17; kodebergen.no)
Apollon
Bergen takes its music scene very seriously — from its population of around 250,000, some pretty big artists have emerged, including Sondre Lerche and the Kings of Convenience. You can browse for them and many more at this independent record store, which has been around since 1976, and stocks a massive vinyl collection.
If mp3s are more your thing, Apollon is also a bar, with an extensive list of beers on tap (Nygårdsgaten 2A)
Cornelius Restaurant
It’s hard to pinpoint our favorite thing about this seafood resto: Maybe it’s the gorgeous, half-hour boat ride from Bergen’s harbor through the archipelago and out to tiny Holmen island where it’s located. Or the amazing views of the fjord as you dine on freshly caught scallops, mussels, sea urchins and giant crab claws.
It could also be Alf Roald, the founder and owner of Cornelius, who will regale you with some rather ribald tales. Just be sure to book ahead of time and pray for good weather. (Three-course meal including round-trip boat shuttle, $135; cornelius-restaurant.no)
Festivals
Bergen, birthplace of composer Edvard Grieg, is crazy about classical music — actually, it’s crazy about all kinds of music (electro-pop and black metal, especially). And come summer, Bergen gets festival fever. Lana Del Ray, Blondie, ZZ Top, Robert Plant, Simple Minds, Television are just some of the headliners at the enormous outdoor BergenFest (June 11-15; bergenfest.no), held in the historic city center.
The Bergen International Festival (May 21 to June 4; fib.no) features many classical music performances and opera, along with pop and electronica, as well as dance, theater and film. And Grieg in Bergen (June 17 to Aug. 24; grieginbergen.com) is just that, with classical works of the composer and other notables like Mozart and Vivaldi, performed in the city’s historic Church of the Cross.