The 10 coolest and craziest spring menswear collections

Most of the time and for the majority of people — even fashion people — menswear is suiting-centric and straight-laced. In another word: boring.

But twice per year, the men’s fashion weeks in London, Milan and Paris(no New York yet, regrettably) prove there is some spark of invention beyond the suit and tie, even if it’s only in the styling.

Consider that dudes’ clothing hasn’t changed much in the past century, and see why, from season to season, exceptional men’s fashion shows are not necessarily about the new but the nuanced, and the line between good-old desire (“wow, I want that!”) and the just-as-good aspect of spectacle (“wow, what IS that?!”)

The spring/summer 2015 shows wrapped up Sunday. Here are the collections either too chic or too crazy to not be paid attention.

Les cool kids at Ami

Designer Alexandre Mattiussi’s sophomore runway showing did not disappoint.

Breton stripes paired with ripped blue jeans, blazers and brogues addressed with skateboards and backwards caps — all the French-kid clichés were there, wrapped up like one irresistible cigarette.

Comme des Garçons gets to the point

Military-inspired fare — standard. Leopard-print detail — sure. But the boots!

Though they look like walkable versions of those absurdly long nails popular in the hood, they’re actually a full-fledged phenomenon in Mexico.

That Rei Kawakubo is always on the beat.

Craig Green’s emotional zen

Voluminous padded samurai robes in black, white and blue — nothing you’d find in Brooks Brothers, that’s for damn sure. Models walked barefoot, and some wore wood-and-fabric structures on their backs that made for cryptic banners.

Silent protest? Maybe. Either way, it was so moving that everyone cried.

The sketchy situation at Dior Homme

Designer Kris Van Assche used the scribbled handwriting from one of Christian Dior’s archival letters as a print on suits, bombers and denim.

Then apparently he found a box of crayons to make his own colorful imprints — a playful element that added much-needed joie de vivre to the otherwise generically polished.

Dries Van Noten set the barre

“Sensual athleticism” is the buzz-word being used to describe Van Noten’s latest lineup, an amalgam of ballet (think Rudolf Nureyev specifically) and American football.

Which men will be brave enough to sport a silk robe, unitard or embroidered harness come next spring? Only the ones who have taste to match their bravado.

Beau Brummel nouveau at Ermenegildo Zegna

In Stefano Pilati’s world, everything is fine and dandy. The designer delivered deconstructed suiting and oversized staples elongated in silk and other fine fabrics, and threw in sweatshirts and tech jackets for a sportswear edge.

It’s a look that echoes Old World sophistication, yet perfectly matches an iPhone.

J.W. Anderson’s liquid dreams

Anderson, London’s current enfant terrible, loves to gender-bend.

Yes, there were cable-knit sweaters turned into zip-front cropped tops, and purses and pussy-bow blouses. But some of the best ensembles spoke subversion more quietly — with languid forms and sensual, shoulder-baring shapes.

Frankenstyle at Maison Martin Margiela

The mysterious, Factory-like design team behind the Maison (Margiela himself retired years ago) once again concocted a collection to meet the creative and commercial needs of both the brand and its customer.

Translation: A bomber jacket that’s not just one bomber jacket, but a few of them sewn together so that it looks super special while fundamentally being the same thing everyone else has.

And it’s a formula we’re 100 percent fine with. Because all men need a great pair of jeans and proper wool trousers, so why not sew them in the same pant?

The Saint Laurent replay

Hedi Slimane doesn’t care much for innovation, but no critic can begrudge him his handle on what’s impossibly cool and current.

Val Kilmer’s son Jack, hot off his role in Gia Coppola’s “Palo Alto,” walked the cult designer’s runway alongside Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger look-alikes in wares fans will undoubtedly be starving themselves to fit into.

Browne’s anatomy

In stores, Thom Browne sells suits. On the runway, Thom Browne sells phantasmagoria.

This time around, his boys wore jackets and trousers stuffed and stitched with bulging muscles that resembled anatomical models. It was another brilliant lesson from a showman who embodies both tradition and the boldest efforts to break it.