Travel

Checking in: Four Seasons Hotel in St. Petersburg

What

In a city famous for its architecture, art and culture, Four Seasons spent almost eight years meticulously restoring the 19th-century Lobanov-Rostovsky Palace. Based on archival photos and adorned with Russian gold, the majestic lobby and public spaces are inviting and luxurious. The two signature lions flanking the entrance date back to 1810 and are memorialized in Alexander Pushkin’s poem “The Bronze Horseman.”

Four Seasons spent almost eight years meticulously restoring the 19th-century Lobanov-Rostovsky Palace.

Where

The hotel is centrally located in the Admiralteysky District with stunning views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and a short walk to the Mariinsky Theater, Nevsky Prospect shopping, Kazan Cathedral and Mikhailovsky Castle.

When

Now! Lasting for just a few more weeks, the city’s legendary White Nights means the sun goes down for barely four hours each day.

Why

Four Seasons’ meticulous service combines with Russian history to provide a great balance of old and new. Clued-in staffers provide insider insights into nearby highlights such as the State Hermitage Museum, whose newly opened General Staff Building hosts the contemporary art biennial Manifesta 10 through October (manifesta.org).

Working well

The Luceo spa is a four-story holistic retreat built into one of the hotel’s many expansive courtyards. Accented by a wall of water-falls, the triangle-shaped pool sets a soothing tone for the top-floor relaxation atrium. Try the Amber facial, custom-crafted for the spa by über-organic British line ila. The Amber products are an homage to the infamous Amber Room at the Summer Palace of Catherine the Great, often considered the Eighth Wonder of the World.

Needs work

The Russian language can be challenging for American tourists. The hotel’s clientele is more than 40 percent Russian, and lower-level hotel staff have difficulty understanding and accommodating English-speaking guests.

Competitive edge

The 183 rooms are furnished in the spirit of 19th-century Europe using the traditional pastel colors, but with modern amenities and services. Book a room on the Noble Floor and enjoy the apartment-like feel of the original soaring ceilings preserved as part of the renovation.

Don’t miss

It’s not all about vodka. Stop in at the Xander bar for a Polugar, a wheat-based Russian spirit nearly forgotten for more than 150 years. Nicknamed “bread wine,” peasants used to rub the liquor between their palms to invoke the smell of fresh baked bread. Try a tasting flight or a Revival №1, Polugar mixed with martini spirito, honey and lemon.

Must try

Percorso, the Italian restaurant with a de rigueur open kitchen. Eat in the restaurant’s Amber Room, a reference to the $142 million worth of amber stolen from Catherine the Great’s summer palace by the Nazis and never recovered.

Details

Classic Four Seasons rooms range from $480 low season to about $850 high season. fourseasons.com