Travel

Venice’s Abbot Kinney Blvd. lives up to its super-cool hype

Less than two decades ago, Abbot Kinney Boulevard was just another run-down Westside strip with a few obscure thrift shops and low-rent liquor stores. Nearby, artists studios in old Craftsman bungalows and flashy celebrity lofts mingled precariously close to low-income housing. A few brave pioneers like Chef Joe Miller opened what is now a neighborhood French-American staple, Joe’s, down the road from Hal’s funky art bar and casual grill. The graffiti-ridden Venice area was pretty bleak, but on the cusp of turning.

But now on any given afternoon you can find resident hipsters, well-known designers, artists, musicians and tastemakers walking along streets that boast some of the priciest real estate in California. It hasn’t hurt that GQ Magazine recently dubbed it “The Coolest Street in America.”

Slowly, more popular stores and eateries have started creeping in — including a handful of commercial chains (gasp!), such as the café Lemonade, Tom’s shoes, Lucky Brand Jeans and Alexis Bittar jewelry, but Abbot Kinney still retains cutting-edge cool local designers.

FULL SCALE: Salt Air fareJakob Layman
WET YOUR WHISTLE: The Fairmont Miramar in Santa Monica.

And hard-to-book eateries also now abound. If you don’t have the patience to wait an hour for pizza at Gjelina (gjelina.com), try freshly made pasta at Tasting Kitchen, lobster rolls at Salt Air or Willie Jane for Southern fare.

Feed Body & Soul is for health-conscious vegans; while carnivores can load up on juicy slabs of meat to go at Pork Belly’s across the road. The Other Room wine bar is perfect for sipping and swirling with your laptop, or try quaffing a few stiff cocktails at the The Brig before ending the night dancing with guest DJ’s at gay enclave Roosterfish. On the first Friday of the month, food trucks gather along this road for a late-night block party. Of course, the juicing trend is not lost on this crowd at Kreation Café & Juicery, but for caffeine and sugar, grab an espresso to refuel at cookie-cutter-cute 3 Square Bakery or rustic Local 1205.

As for shopping, there’s the slightly austere SALT (1114 Abbot Kinney Blvd.) for one-of-a-kind jewelry, clothing and accessories; Kendall Conrad for high-end handbags; and funky unisex sneakers for walking in style at Waraku from Japan. Gem stones are displayed in glass cases with gravelly sand on the floor at Made in Earth, where they kindly offer flip-flops at the door so you can take a break from your stilettoes. This beach vibe is a stark contrast to LFrank, which has a security guard at the door to watch over the stunning jewels by local Liseane Frankfurt. There is plenty of attitude, along with the men’s chunky cross rings, “Mad Men”-style fedoras and camouflage skinny jeans, at Guild. Pop into Burning Torch for antique Victorian rings and faux fur. If you’re looking for a $600 sweater with strategically placed holes, stacking rings or worn-out looking high tops, Heist (shopheist.com) hits the spot.

With all the new retail blood on the street, it’s nice to see some longtime staples are still around. Like Ozzy Osbourne’s former costume designer, Pamela Barish, with her bespoke coats and cocktails dresses, not far from Minnie T’s where you’ll find fingerless, soft-as-butter elbow gloves, glittery booties and cashmere sweaters. One of that fashion trifecta is Principessa, where you can pick up a pair of worn-in boyfriend jeans, a black sequin tube-top and a plaid Chambray shirt, casually thrown over — an Abbot Kinney uniform. All you need now to complete the look would be a chunky, studded doggie collar from The Modern Dog for your pooch.

Locals rummage for antique bric-a-brac for their Venice beach abode at Bountiful, along with mid-century glass pieces next door at Neptina and custom-made furniture for the patio at Tumbleweed & Dandelion down the road.

While Abbot Kinney may be the bastion of all West Coast cool, it’s lacking a luxe hotel. So stay at the Fairmont Miramar (from $419; fairmont.com), a few miles up Ocean Avenue in Santa Monica by the sea. Book a California bungalow-style room, then enjoy a Mexican-inspired meal at Chef Ray Garcia’s FIG (figsantamonica.com) on site.