AT times, Thierry Muret must feel like Willy Wonka punching the clock at the Chocolate Factory. As the master chocolatier at Godiva, the 48-year-old Belgian spends his days dreaming up imaginative new confections. And, of course, sampling them before choosing the best truffles, bonbons and heart-shaped marzipan to wrap up for the temptation of the masses.
Founded in Belgium in 1926, Godiva introduced gourmet chocolates to the American public in the mid-’60s, initially through displays in high-end department stores. Its first New York shop opened in 1978.
Since 1988, it has been Muret’s job to conceive new concoctions for the cacao bean while staying true to the company’s traditional roots.
@Work talked with the heavily accented choco-guru to find out what it’s like having one of the sweetest jobs in the culinary world.
How did you get started in chocolate?
I grew up in Brussels, so of course I knew of the tradition of Belgian chocolate making. My university studies were focused on food science, after which I had a three-year apprenticeship in Antwerp in chocolate and confections.
Why chocolate?
It’s the material itself, the complexity involved. To master chocolate making, you must spend a lot of time.
Still, how can it possibly take three years to learn as an apprentice?
You need to understand nuances. Working with chocolate is very particular. It is not only the origin of the cacao beans and the amount of beans going in that determine quality, but also how you process it. The beans must be picked, roasted, ground, and then the cocoa solids must be mixed with sugar for dark chocolate, or sugar and milk for milk chocolate. It is also crucial that you work at very specific temperatures.
What brought you to the US?
I arrived in 1984 to open a shop in Chicago with my sister. It was a very small operation, traditional, handmade. It was the best learning experience because I was able to experiment. I was interviewed by Godiva in 1988, and I thought it was a perfect fit because it is the same thing, a great deal of creative freedom. They were looking for new ideas and flavor combinations.
What’s your best new idea?
We now have a collection inspired by ice-cream parlors that taste exactly like ice creams: mint chocolate chip, pecan caramel sundae, orange and cream.
What was one of your more “abstract” inventions?
We had a line that was inspired by the fashion industry. So I had to look to the runways for fabrics and colors, and then reflect what was represented visually into flavors. So we had key limes and mandarins for color, and mousses to express the silky fabrics themselves.
What’s your day like?
I am in the office [in Reading, Pa.] at 7 a.m. From 9 to 5, I am usually in the kitchen developing prototypes by hand or creating them for consumers. I work with three other chefs. We have 12 linear feet of bluestone marble, which is the ideal surface to cool the chocolate. I also have a team and a kitchen in Brussels. I spend about 50 percent of my time in each.
After you have an idea, I’m envisioning you walking into a boardroom of marketing execs and giving them chocolates to try.
Yes, maybe 30 percent of my job is outside the kitchen. And it is very much like you say. Instead of pie graphs and PowerPoint presentations, I present samples of the candy itself. I probably do this two or three times a week.
Ever get tired of chocolate?
No. I’ve even begun to incorporate chocolate into my cooking at home, and my family is my first taste test. I’ve made a barbecue sauce with chocolate. Mussels are delicious with white wine, white chocolate and paprika. Rabbit goes well with dark chocolate.
Why is this a dream job?
Because it never stops. It is a beautiful continuum of creativity that is ongoing, to the point that you can be inspired by colors, seasons, savory flavors. It is an exploration.
Any advice for following in your footsteps?
Be patient. The job takes a long time to master. Understand all the flavor complexities and techniques. Create your own style.
What about advice for better appreciating quality chocolates?
Really to try to discover all the flavors. Sit down and relax. Close your eyes. Let it melt on your tongue and notice the texture. And explore the complex flavor platform. In plain chocolate you might discover vanilla and dark cocoa and earthiness. Maybe some beautiful caramel notes. It’s like tasting wine. You savor it.
mkane@nypost.com