Tuning in every Wednesday to “Top Chef” is one way to put your fingers on the chopping block of the next chef rock star. But serious talent lurks right here in our own city. We asked five of the city’s top toques — Eric Ripert, Bobby Flay, Daniel Boulud, Laurent Tourondel and Alfred Portale — to name the city’s next rising-star chef, the person they think will one day be in their shoes — or kitchens! If you don’t already know them, prepare to start name-dropping.
Bobby Flay, Mesa Grill and Bar Americain, Food Network star
His pick for the next top chef: George Mendes, 37, executive chef and owner, Aldea
“He cooks with bold ingredients and is creative without spoiling the integrity of the dishes.”
His favorite dish by Mendes: Sea urchin toast with cauliflower cream, sea lettuce and lime ($9). “Basically, he’s just using four ingredients. I remember thinking how simple it was and how he really got the essence of them to come out with whatever he did to it. Simple, but having a lot of finesse.”
Mendes on his mentor: “I worked for David Bouley for three and a half years and he was the first person who guided me and showed me what haute cuisine was. He taught me how to use lots of layers of herb purees and infused oils, without much cream or butter. He also taught me to have a free spirit of working with global ingredients and creating something new from that — not just sticking to the realm of classical French ingredients. That attitude really defines what I do today. My food is very influenced by lots of countries.”
Mendes’ signature dish: shrimp alhinho with coriander and pickled watermelon
Alfred Portale, chef and owner, Gotham Bar & Grill
His rising chef pick: Christopher Lee, 33, executive chef of Aureole
“His food is modern and sophisticated, but most importantly it’s approachable. I think he’s in tune with today’s changing dining landscape.”
His favorite dish by Lee: seared yellow fin tuna with braised short ribs in a red wine sauce, served originally at Striped Bass and then at Gilt
Lee on his mentors: “I learned basic technique from Daniel Boulud, and then Jean-Georges [Vongerichten] taught me fusion and how to incorporate Asian flavors into French technique. Neil Gallagher [of Oceana] taught me to explore the whole world and Alfred Portale took this messy kid and matured me and challenged me to take all those aspects and not be confused. I owe him as the person who really focused me and turned what I know into what I do.”
Lee’s signature dish: Colorado lamb loin with summer bean cassoulet
Daniel Boulud, chef of Daniel, Café Boulud, Bar Boulud and DBGB
His pick for the next top chef: Daniel Humm, 32, executive chef, 11 Madison Park
“Daniel is very precise, very meticulous and very bright. He has a well-balanced temper, too. He is all about proving himself through his cooking. I need an heir to my business — and I wouldn’t even have to change the name on the canopy! Though, I am not ready to retire yet.”
His favorite dish by Humm: Torchon with Blis maple syrup, Pain d’Épices and greenmarket apples
Humm on his mentors: “Professionally, my mentors are a chef named Gerard Rabaey from Switzerland and Daniel Boulud, here in New York. I worked for Rabaey for five years. He taught me to be persistent, to never compromise my standards. He was so passionate and precise. On a daily basis for 30 years he has never missed a beat. One of the biggest lessons is that cooking is to make people happy and cooking what people want to eat, not about for a chef to show how good he is.”
Humm’s signature dish: Dover sole with matsutake mushrooms and nasturtium
Eric Ripert, chef/owner of Le Bernardin and host of “Avec Eric,” Sunday nights on PBS
His pick for the next top chef: Gavin Kaysen, 30, executive chef, Café Boulud; winner of last year’s James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef Award
“I think Gavin’s cooking is totally original. While he clearly has a mastery of the classic technique, I find he uses some really interesting exotic flavors as well and always pays homage to the ingredients.”
His favorite dish by Kaysen: Sashimi of Hamachi with compressed watermelon, jalapeno, scallions, ponzu vinaigrette (served at the Tibetan Aid Project, which Ripert hosted at Le Bernardin)
Kaysen on his mentors: “Daniel Boulud is obviously also a huge mentor to me. He shapes me every day. I learned classic technique, but also a respect for the history and culture of the cuisine that we cook. The first chef I ever worked for was George Serra. He was the chef at Green Heights Lake Club in Minnesota, a burger and fish fry kind of place where I worked when I was 15. He taught me about the industry and really shaped me in that old-school sense. I never saw a food magazine until I was in culinary school and that shaped the way I thought. I didn’t think of it as a glorified profession. I did it ’cause I loved to cook.”
Laurent Tourondel, chef of BLT Steak, BLT Prime and BLT Fish
His pick for the next top chef: Gavin Kaysen, 30, executive chef, Café Boulud
“Gavin has the right mix of talent, humility and work ethic to take him to the next level. I appreciate the way he takes the serious techniques and turns them into playful dishes.”
His favorite dish by Kaysen: “Tasting of Pennsylvania Veal” with braised cheek, seared loin, roasted salsify, smoked sweet potato, Brussels sprouts and mustard fruit jus (no longer on the menu). “It’s a great combination of traditional flavors organized in a new way.”