In early 19th-century Argentina, farmers let their cows and sheep roam freely across the country’s vast plains. Having realized that such a system was inefficient, around the 1880s they began to fence their herds into large estates, or estancias, after the Spanish word estanciar, “to stay.” Stationary farming proved profitable and many farmers used the money they earned to build opulent farm houses.
Today, many of these houses near the country’s capital, Buenos Aires, have been converted into luxurious boutique hotels where guests can pretend to be rural aristocracy for a few days. The designs of the top estancias vary widely — from ivy-covered Tudor manors to more traditional Argentine “quintas.” But, regardless of the aesthetic, the focus at every estancia is the same: relaxation.
La Bamba de Areco
Located 75 miles from Buenos Aires and only 15 minutes from San Antonio de Areco, a quaint gaucho town known for its silversmiths, La Bamba de Areco (from $580) has nailed the mix between traditional charm and modern luxury. Visitors must bump down a dirt road before arriving at the estate’s driveway, where staff members often await on horseback to welcome their guests. The deep red Colonial-style main house — which once served as a post house on Argentina’s Royal Road — has been preserved since 1830, but updated to include modern comforts. The guest bathtubs may be old-fashioned, but the property also boasts a high-tech movie room and decidedly fresh guestrooms. A mixture of black-and-white photography and traditional paintings pepper the walls of the rooms and common spaces, of which there are many. The most unique is the property’s “pulperia,” which used to house horses, and now serves as a cozy place to read, play and indulge in the estancia’s homemade cakes.
Estancia la Sofía
Also in San Antonio de Areco is Estancia La Sofía (from $265). Founded by a German wife and Argentine husband team, La Sofía focuses on polo, the passion that first brought the couple together when they crossed paths at a tournament in Barcelona. They fantasized for many years about starting a combined boutique hotel and polo facility, and La Sofía — a traditional farm house on acres of sprawling polo fields — is the fruit of that dream. The estancia’s polo club is famous in Argentina, and hosts several important tournaments throughout the year. Polo lessons are also available.
La Fortuna
Those who have ever dreamed of being royalty will feel right at home at La Fortuna (from $3,000 per night for the entire estancia), a striking chateau designed by a French architect in 1902 that once served as an important Franco-Argentine family’s weekend home. The estancia’s seven guest rooms are stately and elegant, and the staff is impressively attentive. La Fortuna is not a place to watch your waistline. Lunches and dinners feature meticulously planned menus of regionally sourced meats and produce, but the real culinary highlight is high tea, which consists of towering silver platters of smoked salmon sandwiches, strawberry shortcakes and dulce de leche-stuffed filo. To work off the feasting, guests can bike to the nearest town, a teensy hamlet in the middle of Argentine soy country. La Fortuna is normally rented as an entire property — for true estancia-styled living.
Estancia Villa Maria
A mere hour’s drive from the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires and only 15 minutes from its main airport sits Estancia Villa Maria (from $165; ), an ivy-covered Tudor mansion designed by famous Argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo in 1919. The house is surrounded by 1,500 acres of tranquil forest, parks and fields, where guests can bird-watch, amble or take a polo lessons from the estancia’s world-renowned polo school. Villa Maria’s lunch and dinner menus are extensive. Gourmet types can delight in the estancia’s Chardonnay sweetbreads or beef with berry wine sauce, while more traditional eaters can order the grilled pork or penne with mushrooms.
Candelaria del Monte
With no TV and only six guest rooms, Candelaria del Monte (from $220; ) is the perfect country oasis 60 miles from Buenos Aires. Nestled on 200 acres of plains, the main house is rustic but well decorated — its furniture having been designed from repurposed materials by the estancia’s owner, Sebastian Goñi.
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Haley Cohen is the Argentina/Uruguay correspondent for The Economist.