Food & Drink

Shell shock

They’re coming by boat, bus and train to Brooklyn Crab. It’s no wonder they don’t mind the wait.

Since opening two weeks ago, this tri level seafood eatery in Red Hook has been reeling in shellfish fanatics willing to hang around for hours in a desolate neighborhood, previously best known for its gigantic Ikea store. Now, a summer crowd swarms this seaside crab shack that feels like it should be off the coast of Maryland or maybe even Maine.

“It doesn’t feel like you’re in New York,” says 27-year-old Murray Hill resident Chelsey Green. She and her 27-year-old roommate Kristin Johnson trekked down here last Sunday. They were able to get drinks and oysters at the bar shortly after arriving around 5 p.m. But they had to wait another 2 ½ hours before they could get dinner.

“For not liking oysters, they’re pretty good,” says Johnson, ready, willing and able to wait for the main course. With cargo ships in the distance she says, “It feels like you’re at the beach.”

If Green and Johnson had stopped by Saturday night, they would’ve waited more than four hours for entrees including $48 servings of steamed king crab legs and $98 Brooklyn “Crab Royale” platters for two that include one and a half lobsters, three types of crab, corn on the cob and potatoes. Last week, the restaurant went through 2,800 blue crabs alone. They haven’t had time to count the lobsters.

Luckily for visitors, this 16,000-square-foot spot is becoming more about hanging out than “waiting.” A family-friendly lower level called “Uncle Polly’s Place,” where fake shark heads protrude from wooden walls, offers mini-golf ($5 for 18 holes), a big sandbox and a shady dining area.

PHOTOS: BROOKLYN CRAB

The middle floor is split between a shaded bar and a deck with 14 picnic tables, perfect for sunbathers.

The top floor is comprised of conventional wooden booths under a rooftop, illuminated at night by holiday lights.

“We’ve been wanting to do this for about six years,” says co-owner Jamie Vipon whose Michelin-rated restaurant Alma resides about a mile north in Carroll Gardens. “We’ve been obsessed with doing a crab shack like you see in Maine or down South.”

Getting to Brooklyn Crab is nearly as interesting as the destination itself. The Ikea ferry from South Street Seaport, free on weekends, delivers Manhattanites half a mile east. A little yellow school bus, property of the restaurant, brings passengers to and from the Carroll Street F train stop a mile and a half north.

A bit surprised Brooklyn Crab became a hit so quickly, Vipon admits, “We’re just kind of adjusting on the fly. You open, you don’t anticipate certain things. You might think people want steamed food and they want fried food.”

To solve this problem, Vipon is installing more fryers. He also plans to open for lunch starting Wednesday, which will spread the crowd a bit. Currently, they open at 4p.m. daily, and close at 10p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11p.m. Friday and Saturday.

“I think we can have a more gradual progression,” he says, “when there are no longer 100 people waiting for us to open.”

SUMMER SENSATIONS

There’s something under the sun for everybody this season, no matter the borough or seashore you’re closest to.

* Anable Basin Sailing Bar & Grill

4-40 44 Drive, Long Island City, Queens

A long stretch of picnic tables along the East River overlooks Midtown Manhattan, safely away from the hustle and bustle. Wash down a $10 burger with a $6 Brooklyn Brewery beer.

* Pop’s Seafood Shack & Grill

15 Railroad Place, Island Park, NY

This indoor/outdoor sandy spot on the water serves $18 lobster rolls, $15 crab croissants and $10 cheeseburger eggrolls. Plus, palm trees on Long Island!

* Max Fish at The Beach Bar

1300 Ocean Ave., Asbury Park, NJ

Though the original Max Fish is a landlocked Lower East Side bar, its pop-up sister seems right at home for its first summer on the Jersey Shore. Sip a $3 PBR and see if Springsteen walks by.

* Bark, Pier 6 at 2 Joralemon St., Dumbo, Brooklyn

This Brooklyn Bridge Park eatery overlooks downtown Manhattan, where a classic wiener goes for $4. Chase that dog with a 16oz. Budweiser, also $4.