Fera — the new restaurant inside Claridge’s Hotel in Mayfair, London — means “wild” in Latin.
Wild, as in the wild card that was Gordon Ramsay, who ran the kitchen for 12 years; wild, as in England’s “it prince” of foraging into the wilderness, Simon Rogan, who has boldly taken over; wild as in the pomp and praise surrounding the major launch this month.
The chef
Two-Michelin-starred Rogan is London’s own René Redzepi. His celebrated L’Enclume, in England’s Lake Region, is the UK’s Blue Hill Stone Barns. His London pop-up, Roganic, cemented him as a farm-to-table star in the international food scene.
The food
The dishes are primal-elegant, with farmlands, woods, and fields faintly touching each plate. Start with the pea flour wafers topped with salt cod mousse (a Rogan-ized chip ‘n’ dip); then the Brill “braised in whey, flavored with alexander seeds, blewitts, whelks, sea asters,” because … what could sound more British?
The look
Understated and nature-inspired. Twigs, sprigs, pebbles and clay pots are set against Claridge’s original, art deco splendor. No more white tablecloths; Fera has an upper-class-relaxed, you-be-you vibe (as long as you look like Gwyneth and/or Chris). There is a small chef’s table and semi-open kitchen.
The service
Claridge’s — part Lady Mary, part Kate Moss — is the world’s best in service. Fera upholds this standard; a large wait staff and sommelier are at your command.
The drinks
The clear, ice-cold Assam tea made with marshmallow root and vodka is the hottest cocktail in London right now.
The skip
Though the wee bar upfront makes killer concoctions, have your appertivos elsewhere in the hotel; perhaps a negroni at the dark and moody Fumoir, or vintage bubbly from the fun and flirty Claridge’s Bar.
Details
From £85 (about $144) for the 3-course prix-fixe menu; claridges.co.uk