There’s arguably no more storied a cocktail than the mint julep, a concoction of bourbon, mint and sugar that’s long been celebrated as the signature sip of the Kentucky Derby (aka the Run for the Roses). But with thoroughbred racing’s premier event set for this Saturday, perhaps it’s time to take your mint julep to the next level. Certainly, that’s what bourbon maker Woodford Reserve is suggesting: In connection with this year’s Run for the Roses, it has been hawking a $1,000 mint julep — yes, a cocktail with a four-digit price tag.
Of course, this is not your run-of-the-mill drink. Begin with the keepsake “Kentucky Rose” cup — a classic julep cup, but with such embellishments as a gold-plated straw and a hand-engraved image of a horse. Even the box that holds the cup is an elaborate affair: It’s “made from the same American oak as Woodford Reserve” and is “lined with a custom silk fabric.”
But what about the drink itself? In keeping with the “Run for the Roses” theme, it features everything from “hand-selected and candied rose petals” to ice “infused with rose water.” “As for the bourbon, it’s Woodford Reserve’s Distiller’s Select — the brand that “has won a gold medal at every major spirits competition,” the label notes.
But the cocktail was offered with a couple of caveats: First, it was made available in a limited edition of just 79, sold through a special Woodford Reserve site (sales ended Thursday). And second, it can be enjoyed only at the Derby (and no, the cocktail price doesn’t include transportation to Louisville’s Churchill Downs).
But why stop at a $1,000 mint julep? Woodford Reserve also offered 10 specialty gold-plated “Royal Rose” cups for $2,000 apiece.
The reality:
You don’t need to be a student of mixology to know that a mint julep can be had for much less than $1,000. Even at New York’s famed Waldorf Astoria — home to some of the most expensive bars in the country — the Derby Day sip tops out at about $20. And while julep cups can sometimes get pricey — especially if they’re made completely from silver — quality versions can also be found for under $50
But that’s not even the real issue, say cocktail enthusiasts and spirits professionals. For starters, while the silver julep cup may be, um, the gold standard, there’s no rule that says it’s the only way to go. “The mint julep works just as well in a glass,” says Al Young, brand ambassador of Four Roses bourbon. It’s also worth noting that Churchill Downs sells commemorative Derby glasses , starting at just $6.
But on top of that, some bourbon aficionados say they’d just as well enjoy their bourbon straight — all that mint and sugar can hide the whiskey’s true character and flavor. And while Woodford Reserve has its fans, Christopher Null of the spirits site Drinkhacker.com says his favorite bourbon of late is Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel from Wild Turkey. “It’s a great bourbon for drinking and settling down with,” he says. Null also says cocktail drinkers shouldn’t hesitate to use bourbon in drinks beyond the mint julep — he’s partial to a version of the classic sazerac cocktail made with bourbon instead of rye.
And what do the folks at Woodford Reserve have to say in defense of their $1,000 cocktail? To some extent, they admit the four-digit drink, which has become an annual tradition for the spirits brand, is a bit of a rich man’s oddity. But Woodford master distiller Chris Morris has pointed out that the proceeds from the sale of the cups go to support the Old Friends Thoroughbred Retirement Center — a retirement “home” for horses that can no longer race. “It’s for a good cause,” says Morris.