We like the city of San Juan. Affordable, easily accessible from New York and packed with activities, Puerto Rico’s capital is our all-time favorite vacation destination. Where else can you experience 16th-century architecture, explore contemporary art and bask on the beach, all within a single, stress-free day? The combination, plus the familiar comforts of home (pharmacies that take our insurance; Nature Valley granola bars) is what brings my husband, young sons and me back year after year.
A highlight is a visit (or several) to Old San Juan, a vibrant, colorful city founded in 1521. Spend a morning strolling amid cobblestone streets and colonial buildings.
Fuel up with breakfast at Patio del Nispero, inside Hotel El Convento (elconvento.com), a 360-plus-year-old building with a rich history. (It was a convent for more than 250 years; today, it’s a 58-room luxury hotel with period details.) In the courtyard — shaded by an enormous nispero fruit tree — the open-air restaurant, which reopened last fall, is a tranquil respite from the busy streets. Breakfast items include banana-nut pancakes ($14.50); our kids were thrilled when they were given crayons and coloring sheets.
A visit to Castillo San Felipe del Morro (nps.gov/saju; $3, free for kids 15 and under) is a must; the fort, which began construction in 1539, provides an up-close look at history, plus great ocean views. Time your visit to El Morro with the last hour of sunlight for the most jaw-dropping experience, and be sure to allow enough time to explore the enormous expanse of lawn in front. The esplanade is a popular destination for local families to picnic and fly kites — vendors might be in the area selling kites, or pick one up at Walgreens (you’ll find them throughout San Juan) for a few bucks. We’ve whiled away hours just playing in the grass, enjoying the sun, breeze and scenery.
History’s great, but we make it a priority to spend part of every day at the beach. Options abound; some of our preferred spots are in laid-back Ocean Park and in Isla Verde, where a string of resorts line the sand.
Our top beach is in Piñones, just east of the city along Route 187. Relatively undeveloped, Piñones is the go-to place for Puerto Rican street food, like delectable alcapurrias (fritters commonly stuffed with beef or crab). Pass the first cluster of kiosks; you’ll hit a straight stretch of road in front of more kiosks. Cars will be parked along the shoulder. Pull over, and you’ll find a beach protected by a reef just offshore. It’s a perfect shallow swimming spot for children: On rough sea days, there’s a gentle current; when the ocean is calm, it’s practically a bathtub.
When it rains, or if the specter of sunburn forces you indoors, there are plenty of options to keep the family entertained. There are two well-regarded children’s museums in the area, but we’ve always been too busy to visit either. We like the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (mapr.org; adults $6, children $3, under 5 free), where the galleries are filled with traditional and contemporary Puerto Rican art. Our most recent visit coincided with several school groups, but we never felt suffocated, as one often does in NYC museums. Our favorite spots here are the children’s area — which has several interactive stations, including a make-your-own self-portrait area — and the koi pond in the well-manicured garden.
There’s so much to do in San Juan, but for trips longer than a few days, it’s worthwhile to see a bit more of the island. An easy half-day trip is to El Yunque National Forest (fs.usda.gov/elyunque), the only tropical rain forest in the National Forest system and less than an hour’s drive from San Juan. It’s a fun place to explore, but here’s the thing about a rain forest: It rains. Come prepared to get wet. Make a stop at the Yokahu Observation Tower, which offers panoramic views when it’s clear. There are several easy hikes accessible from the road; most trails are paved and manageable for small feet (or for parents carrying tired tykes on their shoulders). We took a short stroll along the El Yunque trail, checking out super-size plants and snails.
All that, and you can be back in San Juan for a picnic lunch, relaxing on the beach while your kids bury your feet in the sand. You’re in heaven, and so are they.
STAY
With young kids in tow, we enjoy the convenience of a vacation rental, where we can spread out and cook some meals. Options range from historic apartments in Old San Juan to beachfront condos. Rates vary widely; at the lower end, we paid about $99 a night for a one-bedroom close to the beach in Ocean Park. Good sources for rentals are vrbo.com and homeaway.com.
For a family-friendly resort experience, check out the Courtyard by Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort. In addition to the beautiful beach, amenities include pools, baby-sitting services and an ice cream parlor. For modern Caribbean food in a spectacular setting, have dinner at the hotel’s Sirena, a beachfront restaurant that opened in January. (Rooms from $169. sjcourtyard.com)