With his hat tilted to block the sun and a look of concentration, Aspro Betro is the wizened old-timer on the courts at Bryant Park. When he releases the silver ball in his hand, it nears the smaller “jack” ball, making a satisfying “dink!” to land a point. The finesse in the shot is what makes it pétanque, says Betro, 87, who was introduced to the game by a Frenchman who started a pétanque club here in the ’80s.
The players are welcoming, but don’t call it bocce, the game’s Italian counterpart. “This is a French game, and you know the French are sophisticated,” says Betro. “Bocce is primitive.”
Pétanque gets its annual big turn in the spotlight this weekend when tournaments are held as part of citywide Bastille Day festivities.
Versions of the game date back to ancient Egypt, but the modern one started in 1907 in a fishing village outside Marseille. Today die-hards such as Betro are among the legions of people who gather in NYC parks all year, even under a baking heat wave, to face off in the game.
Its wide-ranging appeal is evident in Bryant Park, where Betro is on a team with Dave King, a tattooed 35-year-old prop maker from Crown Heights. King took advantage of the park’s free lessons and soon bought his own set of boules. For him, it’s the perfect summer game. “You can do it pretty much everywhere,” King says. “It’s not super-strenuous. You can be hanging out talking with your friends.”
Pétanque versus bocce
Bocce involves more rolling, like bowling; pétanque is more throwing, like horseshoes. Bocce players can take steps while throwing; pétanque players shoot from a circle.
Pétanque balls are made of metal and are about the size of an orange; the grapefruit-size bocce balls are often made of wood.
Unlike bocce, pétanque players have positions. The pointer’s goal is to get the boule closest to the jack; the shooter’s job is to knock opponents out of the way.
Where to play
Bryant Park (Sixth Avenue at 41st Street)
La Boule New Yorkaise offers free lessons weekdays. The courts, where equipment is provided, are open for players daily.
Washington Square Park (West Fourth and Thompson streets)
Players have been boule-ing here for 20 years.
Santos Anne (366 Union Ave., Williamsburg; 718-486-6979)
This spot offers players a challenge — beat the owner in pétanque, and he’ll buy you a free drink (warning: he’s good). Sip a house-made michelada while waiting your turn.
Green-Wood Park (555 Seventh Ave., Sunset Park; 718-499-7999): It’s not pétanque (or a park), but a bar with three well-kept outdoor dirt bocce courts to get your boule fix. The bar, formerly a mechanic shop and garage, hosts games by the Brooklyn Bocce League, but you can play any time the courts are open. Bar open daily.
BEST OF THE FÊTES
Bastille Day commemorates the day on July 14 in 1789 when French rebels stormed the Bastille, a state prison, and sparked the French Revolution. In the city, celebrate at a street fair or at a French vintage carnival. Here’s where:
Smith Street’s Bastille Day Party
Boerum Hill, noon to 8 p.m., tomorrow
The highlight of this 11th annual celebration in the heart of Brooklyn’s bustling Smith Street is a pétanque tournament, but visitors can also play foosball and enjoy outdoor music, while trying bites from local vendors and cocktails from Lillet, the French liquor. Organized by French cafe Bar Tabac (128 Smith St.).
French Institute Alliance Française block party
60th Street between Fifth and Lexington avenues, noon to 5 p.m., tomorrow
This UES street turns into little Paris for FIAF’s annual Bastille Day party, which has crepes, eclairs and fromage as well as wine, beer and live music — and the famous raffle for prizes such as a one-week trip for two to Paris and Provence. Try a Bastille Day Banquet Lunch Box, a three-course lunch created by the renowned Maîtres Cuisiniers de France, featuring coq au vin and crème caramel. Boxes cost $30.
The Parisian Ball
Governors Island, today
To celebrate today’s opening of Fête Paradiso, the world’s largest collection of vintage French carnival rides and games, Governors Island hosts a Bastille Day bash, with French DJs, food and drinks. 4 p.m.; free ferries run from Battery Maritime Building, 10 South St.; feteparadiso.com/parisian-ball. Tickets, $50