A replica of a 16th-century merchant ship, “Elizabeth II,” at Manteo’s Festival Park. (OBX CVB)
The Outer Banks, a thin strip of barrier islands off the North Carolina coast, is one of those rare places where you can spend the morning on the beach and the afternoon on the sound without having to walk more than a few hundred yards. Which means, if you’re feeling terribly lazy, you could sit in one spot and catch both the sunrise and the sunset.
But with so much going on in OBX (in local parlance), it’d be a shame to hang out on a deck chair all day. Here are some must-dos in three of the most popular towns: Duck, Kitty Hawk and Manteo.
GET THE DRIFT
Thanks to wonderfully wide beaches that extend some 200 miles from OBX’s northern to southern tip, there’s usually a fair amount of real estate between your towel and your neighbors’ — even on busy days. But it’s heavenly before breakfast, when your only company are the quarrelsome ghost crabs, scurrying across the sand and popping in and out of their holes, along with a scattering of surfers and pods of dolphins enjoying the waves — all way more entertaining than any morning TV.
PADDLE ON
If you tire of the sea, there’s a whole other body of water on the opposite side to explore. Book a kayak eco-tour of the bay at Duck Village Outfitters; two-hour guided trips introduce you to the natural world of the Kitty Hawk Maritime Forest — including birds, turtles, snakes and, if you’re lucky, otters. (Single kayak, $33, double, $59, duckvillageoutfitters.net)
TIMES GONE BY
Who knew OBX had so much history? Manteo, on Roanoke Island in the Roanoke Sound, is where the first English child, Virginia Dare, was born in the first English settlement in America. (Tragically, everyone mysteriously perished; “The Lost Colony,” a depiction of their struggle, plays summers at the island’s Waterside Theatre, through Aug. 23, thelostcolony.org). Resembling a mini-Provincetown, downtown Manteo’s streets are lined with cute clapboard cottages housing galleries, restaurants, boutiques and flower-festooned B&Bs. Cross a small bridge to reach Festival Park, where you can board a replica of a 16th-century merchant ship, “Elizabeth II” ($8, adults, free under age 5), and catch a live concert at the outdoor pavilion (roanokeisland.com).
GOOD EATS
There’s no shortage of fresh seafood when you’re surrounded by water — it’s just a matter of choosing how casual or upscale you want to go. On the fancier end, Kimball’s Kitchen (sanderling-resort.com), in Duck, offers dreamy sunset views over the Currituck Sound through floor-to-ceiling windows. Chef John Lawrence’s menu is nicely balanced between surf and turf; start with a dozen raw Virginia Lynnhaven oysters ($20); follow with the simply prepared local catch of the day (market price) or the generous rack of lamb ($36). Kimball’s also has one of OBX’s best wine lists. Or, keep your seafood feast cheap and get it to go: At Kitty Hawk’s I Got Your Crabs ( igotyourcrabs.com), a half-bushel of local steamed blue crabs runs about $87 and feeds six; sides include corn on the cob and hush puppies ($2.50/order). Dine-in is also available. OBX doesn’t run on Dunkin’ — Duck Donuts (duckdonuts.com) makes your donuts to order; they’re served hot and hand-dipped (try thepeanut butter icing) with your choice of topping.
BUY, BUY, BABY
For tacky T-shirts and cheap souvenirs, any of OBX’s ubiquitous Wings outlets will do. But for stuff you’d actually want, visit Duck’s side-by-side shopping “villages”: Scarborough Faire ( scarboroughfaireinducknc.com ) and Scarborough Lane . You’ll find trendy togs and swimsuits at Confetti Clothing Co. (252-261-5444) and its new, gently priced teen offshoot, Clothes Out 2 (252-261-1177); both fun beach reads and serious lit are stocked at the Island Bookstore ( islandbooksobx.com ). Cross the highway to the Duck Waterfront Shops ( waterfrontshops-duck.com) for discounted clothing at Barr-ee Station ( barreestation.com ), indoor and outdoor toys at the Kid’s Store (252-261-3553) and local Sanctuary Vineyards wines at Candy & Corks (252-255-0600).
SLEEP ON IT
The Sanderling Resort has been an Outer Banks mainstay for decades, but after a recent multi-million-dollar renovation, it’s feeling a whole lot fresher. There are now separate family and adult outdoor pools and a bright, open lobby with ocean views; cheerful orange umbrellas shade you at the new Sand Bar; two fire pits are the place to be in the evenings. There’s also an excellent spa (we like the luxurious “Barefoot on the Banks” pedicure, $75) and a kids’ club. (Rooms from $359, sanderling-resort.com)