VEGAS: 21 essential off-Strip bars and restaurants

AT THIS point, talking about Strip versus off-Strip in Las Vegas seems unfair — it’s like saying Times Square versus not-Times Square when offering up a guide to Manhattan.

Sure, Vegas may at times feel like a big jumble of strip malls and craptacular clapboard houses behind ugly concrete walls, but only the willful could ignore the unique culture of the city, which grew up around gambling and in the process become one of the most cosmopolitan places of its size anywhere.

You name it, at this point you can probably find a restaurant that serves it. Thirsty? Pick a scene — there’s going to be a bar for that (sometimes, without video poker machines, even).

Best of all, none of this has anything to do with the Strip, other than the fact that a lot of the good stuff is just a short ride — or in some cases, a walk — away from the bright lights. Viva Las Vegas.

K J KITCHEN

A plain-Jane joint buried deep in the booming Chinatown is a must for cheap lobster ($8.88 a pound on our last visit) and crowd-pleasing Cantonese specialties.

Hot tip Kitsch aficionados will flip for walnut shrimp, that Chinese-American classic. Tossed in tasty mayonnaise (but of course).

5960 Spring Mountain Rd., (702) 221-0456

FRANKIE’S TIKI

A memorable Arts District dive from the folks behind the famous Double Down on Paradise. The only thing more impressive than the classic Polynesian cocktail menu? The size of the classic Polynesian bouncer.

Hot tip Don’t drink the Mai Tais if you intend to be able to drive anywhere else later on.

1712 West Charleston Blvd., (702) 385-3110

TOFU HUT

Even if you go alone and order just one of the sub-$10 tofu hot pots, you’ll get a free assortment of banchan — Korean side dishes including kim chee. The combination is more than enough for dinner, but feel free to come whenever because this spot is open 24 hours. Service isn’t great, but at these prices, you don’t get to complain.

Hot tip If you’re really hungry after a night of partying, all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue is $13.99 after 11 p.m.

3920 Spring Mountain Rd., (702) 257-0072

DOWNTOWN COCKTAIL ROOM

Flexible and friendly bartenders and a pretty decent cocktail menu make this place hiding in plain sight at the corner of Fremont Street and Las Vegas Boulevard an address to remember.

Hot tip $7 cocktails during Happy Hour, Mon.-Fri. 4 p.m.-8 p.m. Won’t find that at Little Branch.

111 Las Vegas Blvd. South, (702) 880-3696

RAKU

This Spring Mountain Road robatayaki — once the secret late-night hideout of local chefs — has now exploded on the national scene. While it was better when we had the place all to ourselves, you can’t ignore the fact that this is the top spot for late-night Japanese pub food.

Hot tip The restaurant will double in size next month — good news for those eager to try Chef Mitsuo Endo’s specials; ask if they have sea-urchin udon. If they say yes, so should you.

5030 Spring Mountain Rd. #2, (702) 367-3511

ROSEMARY’S

Las Vegas won’t win any prizes for its seen-one, seen-nearly-all nabes; but it does have some spectacular neighborhood gathering places. Chef/partners Michael and Wendy Jordan do French-influenced American dishes in this deliciously un-trendy room, way west of the Strip.

Hot tip The $25 Friday lunch, a three-course prix-fixe, features smartly done classics like beef bourguignon.

8125 West Sahara Ave., (702) 869-2251

LOTUS OF SIAM

Saipin Chutima’s Commercial Center dive tries to be all things to all people, even after receiving raves from nearly every food writer with a soapbox for its authentic dishes. The Northern specialties menu here is one of the most serious you’ll find at a Thai restaurant in North America. To do Lotus right, avoid ordering anything you’ve ever heard of before. Go for something weird, like the Kang-ka-Noon (spicy jackfruit curry).

Hot tip Put down the tongs and step away from the deadly lunch buffet.

953 East Sahara Ave., (702) 735-3033

THE GRIFFIN LOUNGE

Done with Vegas nightlife? You’re just not seeing all sides. This pub on the marvelously seedy stretch of Fremont Street east of Las Vegas Boulevard features a carefully curated jukebox and hipster crowd that’s more Brooklyn than it is this neck of the woods. Bonusness: $1 beers every night from 10 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Hot tip Stop by every Wednesday to check out the local bands that play in the back room.

511 Fremont St., (702) 382-0577

ARCHI’S THAI KITCHEN

Here’s the thing you need to know about Thai food in Las Vegas: Even at its most middling, it beats the hell out of most of the junk they’re serving up on Manhattan’s Ninth Avenue. Archi’s isn’t the best Thai joint in town, but it’s one of the most pleasant; a comfortable, well-lit setting for pork pad prik, lad na, oyster pancakes and much more.

Hot tip Need takeout? Call ahead and pick it up at the drive-through window.

6360 West Flamingo Road, (702) 880-5550

PEPPERMILL RESTAURANT AND FIRESIDE LOUNGE

Circular banquettes face a flaming pool, cocktail waitresses slink around in little black dresses, everything’s smoke (it’s allowed) and mirrors and coziness. Just steps from Wynn and tucked away behind a forgettable 24-hour coffee shop, this is one of the most Vegas places in Vegas, not to mention one of the most romantic.

Hot tip Those Tiffany lamps aren’t real Tiffany, but your waitress might be named Tiffany.

2985 Las Vegas Blvd. South, (702) 735-4177

ISLAND FLAVOR HAWAIIAN

Sometimes referred to as the “Ninth Island,” Las Vegas has a special place in the hearts of Hawaiians, with approximately half a million vacationing here each year. Additionally, tens of thousands of Pacific Islanders call the valley home. Stop by this friendly joint for loco moco, kalua pig and other specialties.

Hot tip Learn more about the local Hawaiian community at www.alohavalley.com.

8090 South Durango Drive, Enterprise (702) 876-2024

ICHIZA

A dead ringer for the sort of coffee shop that made us first fall in love with Tokyo, this late-night hangout on the second story of a Chinatown strip mall does standout versions of Japanese curry, cutlets (katsu), ramen and lots of strange specials, all written down on bits of paper tacked onto nearly every available surface. The honey toast dessert — a loaf of hollowed-out bread with ice cream — is amazing, especially at 2:30 a.m. after a long night of partying.

Hot tip Call ahead to make sure they have a table — this place gets jammed.

4355 Spring Mountain Rd., (702) 367-3151

LUV-IT FROZEN CUSTARD

Made fresh each day from a secret recipe, this family-owned roadside stand is one of the top addresses for creamy frozen custard west of the Rockies. It is strange finding something as synonymous with the more wholesome Midwest on a grungy downtown-ish block, where highlights include a strip club, gross hookers and a Shoot ‘N’ Stab convenience store/gas station probably best avoided after dark. Definitely wait on line for custard — usually served up by owner Greg Tiedemann himself.

Hot tip Don’t go expecting a huge variety — to find out the day’s specials, check the online calendar.

505 East Oakey Blvd., (702) 384-6452

M & M SOUL FOOD

Like any boomtown worth its salt, Las Vegas is diverse beyond its population; besides having competing Hawaiian joints, an army of Thai options and way too many places specializing in Cantonese cooking considering the population, there’s also the group of neighborhood joints specializing in Southern staples like smothered pork chops, fried chicken and greens. This is one to know.

Hot tip $5 Sunday breakfasts! Can we get an Amen?

3923 West Charleston Blvd., (702) 453-7685

LINDO MICHOACAN

There are now four locations of what’s long been recognized as the city’s best Mexican restaurant, but we’re recommending the East Desert Inn Road spot because it offers free shuttle service from the Strip. The simple combo platters at this family-run operation are totally respectable; also, try the goat!

Hot tip The Sunday brunch is popular, but $8.50 huevos rancheros with green chile pork are good any day of the week.

2655 East Desert Inn Rd., (702)735-6828

CAÑA LATIN KITCHEN & BAR

A winning combination of cool ceviches (all for $14 or less) and mojitos by the pitcher ($28) that’s sure to be a hit when summer returns and 90 degree evenings leave us more interested in drinking our dinner than eating it. This Town Square spot opened last week, but we’re confident it’ll last longer than the last restaurant in this space (Louis’ Fish Camp).

Hot tip Hometown boy Kevin Lew is the chef here; he’s best known for his stint at Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace.

6605 Las Vegas Blvd. South, (702) 722-6060

MARCHE BACCHUS

Deep in the heart of the Summerlin planned community — by the shores of a manmade lake (but of course!) you’ll find this wonderful bistro, tucked away behind one of the city’s more likeable wine shops. Grab a bottle on your way in and order the charcuterie board –— make sure to sit outside. By the manmade lake. Off-strip evenings don’t come much more special than this.

Hot tip Stop by on Saturdays for a free wine tasting between 11:30 and 1:30; stick around for lunch.

2620 Regatta Drive, Suite 106; (702) 804-8008

NORA’S

With huge portions of comforting Italian red-sauce fare at low prices in a cozy and even somewhat romantic setting, this is neighborhood mainstay for those in the mood for carbs. A generous order of spaghetti with meatballs or sausage is $9.50 whether you drop in for dinner or lunch.

Hot tip If you’re in a hurry and/or on a serious budget, they’ll sell you two slices of pizza for $3.50 at lunch.

6020 W. Flamingo Rd. #10, (702) 873-8990

MOUNT CHARLESTON LODGE

The food is a pedestrian disappointment; good thing there’s nothing ordinary about the setting of this hotel restaurant, high above the desert floor on the slopes of Mount Charleston. Just 35 minutes from the Strip, and you’re among the pines. And at this time of year, perhaps up to your eyeballs in snow.

Hot tip Located at nearly 8,000 feet above sea level, you won’t need more than a couple of the tasty drinks off the “Fireside Favorites” section of the menu. Ask for your Mt. Charleston Coffee in a mug instead of the usual wineglass.

1200 Old Park Rd., (702) 872-5408

THE BAGEL CAFÉ

It’s a sad state of affairs when you can find a better deli slash bagel shop in the middle of the Nevada desert than in your own New York neighborhood, but it’s always wonderful to see the torch being carried, no matter the location. Love the bagels, the black and white cookies, the cold salads and the no-nonsense servers. This place is pretty special.

Hot tip This is a great way to start a Saturday or Sunday morning — sit at the counter behind the bakery case for the best view in the house.

301 North Buffalo Drive, (702) 255-3444

RONALD’S DONUTS

They’re famous for their vegan donuts, which you need to try, but there’s plenty else to love at this old-school spot on Spring Mountain. We say “yes, please” to their crispy apple fritters, standout maple bars and reliable crullers.

Hot tip A dozen donuts is still just $7 — that’s less than you’ll pay for a coffee and donut at some fancy casino patisseries we won’t mention.

4600 Spring Mountain Rd., (702) 873-1032


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