Food & Drink

Daniel Boulud’s former stars vie for his approval

Daniel Boulud has been a shining light of the NYC dining scene since opening Daniel, his first restaurant here, 20 years ago. And working in one of his seven Manhattan kitchens can be like hitching your wagon to a star: just ask chefs David Chang (the Momofuku empire), Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone (four restaurants, including Parm), Hooni Kim (Danji, Hanjan) or Andrew Carmellini (three places, including Locanda Verde). Cronut king Dominique Ansel is a former employee. Even Gail Simmons, a “Top Chef” judge, once worked as special events manager for Boulud’s Dinex Group.

“Some stay home, some go away, but they are always part of our family,’’ says Boulud, whose latest cookbook, “Daniel: My French Cuisine,” hits stores Tuesday. And though he won’t admit to having favorite “children,” some employees do refer to the chef as Papa Bear. With three Boulud-ites having just left him to start restaurants of their own, we examine how far these apples fell from the tree.

Georgette FarkasTodd France

GEORGETTE FARKAS

Formerly: Boulud’s head of communications

Now: Opening Rotisserie Georgette later this month (14 E. 60th St.). Think elegant comfort food: You can order a simple rotisserie chicken — or one with truffles and foie gras. Farkas’ chef David Malbequi was Daniel’s banquet chef, and former Daniel sommelier Jean Luc Le Du created her wine list.

The DB Stamp of Approval: Boulud pays New York-born Farkas his highest compliment: “Georgette is as French as I am. We really bonded working together for almost 20 years.’’ He came to look at her space on East 60th before she signed the lease, and sketched out where things should be placed in the room. “Georgette would never do anything without asking first,’’ says Boulud, one of whose partners invested in Rotisserie Georgette, with Papa’s OK. (Farkas has impressive connections outside the kitchen, too: Legendary rock promoter Ron Delsener is orchestrating the room’s music.)

XAVIER HERIT

Formerly: much-buzzed-about head bartender at Restaurant Daniel

Now: Soon to open Wallflower, a restaurant and bar at 235 W. 12th St., Herit swears the place will be “a neighborhood bar with no pretension’’ and that he has no plans to serve his famous orchid in an ice cube. Still, most local watering holes don’t offer mint-and-green tea water or housemade ginger-carrot syrup.

Laurent KalkotourTamara Beckwith/NY Post

The DB Stamp of Approval: Losing the master mixologist was a hit to Restaurant Daniel, but he and the chef remain French frères. Papa has even coauthored a cocktail book with Herit. “Xavier used to be soigné, but since he left me, his hair is long and his look is more sauvage,’’ assesses Boulud. “Having [Boulud’s] mentor support means a lot to me,’’ enthuses Herit.

LAURENT KALKOTOUR

Formerly: executive chef at db bistro

Now: Recently opened the French-inflected Atrium Dumbo (15 Main Street, Brooklyn). Most of the staff are Boulud spinoffs, including sous chef Mark Ordaz, four line cooks, maître d’ Leslie Affre, sommelier Alex LePrat and a dishwasher.

The DB Stamp of Approval: Though Papa has not yet ventured to Brooklyn, he acted as Kalkotour’s counselor. “He set time aside twice to meet with me to give me advice,’’ says the young chef. Boulud was grateful Kalkotour timed his departure to coincide with db bistro closing for renovation. “When I gave notice, [Boulud] was happy and sad at the same time,’’ says Kalkotour.