Tired of tracking down vendors for a real-deal tamale? Call off the search, because New York chefs are offering their own takes on the typical bodega grub, a Latin-American dish first created in 5000 BC in an effort to feed large Aztec and Maya armies. It consists of starchy dough (often corn-based) that’s steamed or broiled in a leafy wrapper then filled with a protein.
“Tamales are showing up in high-end restaurants,” says Wai Hon Chu, author of “The Dumpling: A Seasonal Guide,” who’s teaching Tamales 101 Thursday at the Whole Foods Market Culinary Center on the Bowery.
Here are four new incarnations of an old Southwestern treat.
Jalapeño queso, kimchi and pork, spinach and Sichuan sausage tamales
Momofuku Noodle Bar,171 First Ave.; 212-777-7773
The latest addition to the Momofuku Noodle Bar’s minimalist East Village shop comes in the form of a tamale trio. Jalapeño queso, kimchi and pork, and spinach and Sichuan sausage tamales ($8 for all three) are the finger food of choice among late-night patrons, and are steamed in banana leaves instead of corn husks.
“Corn husks don’t really add any flavor to the dish,” says restaurant owner Kevin Pemoulie. “But the banana is extremely aromatic while it’s steaming and fully encapsulates the flavor of the tamale while keeping the moisture inside.”
Sweet corn and pumpkin-seed tamales
Pure Food and Wine, 54 Irving Place; 212-477-1010
The Gramercy Park eatery known for its entirely plant-based, raw vegan menu, uses fresh corn, pumpkin seeds and locally grown portabello mushrooms to create what restaurant owner Sarma Melngailis says is one of their most popular winter dishes.
“Tamales are a comfort food. They are warm, filling and fun to eat. It’s like eating out of a little present.”
The seasonal sweet corn and pumpkin-seed tamale ($24) is served with salsa verde (chopped up tomatillos with cilantro, onion and lime), mole and nondairy sour cream made from blended cashews, coconut and vinegar. “I took them off the menu for a few days, and the response was overwhelming,” she says. “We had to reinstate them that very week.”
Fresh corn tamales with duck confit
Piquant, 259 Flatbush Ave., Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-484-4114
At the popular Park Slope restaurant Piquant, chef Miguel Tepezila incorporates years of classical French culinary training to this traditionally Mexican food with his fresh corn tamales and duck confit ($10).
“You can make them from anything,” he says. “Add sweet potatoes or plantains or introduce a fruit and make them for dessert — they’re very versatile.”
Tepezila uses fresh roasted corn that he then grills before adding a touch of masa cornmeal to give it a Southwestern flavor. His selection of tamales changes monthly depending on the freshest ingredients. “The fun in making tamales is to be creative.”
Sweet potato tamales with pecan butter
Mesa Grill, 102 Fifth Ave.; 212-807-7400
Chef Bobby Flay recently added sweet potato tamales with pecan butter to his winter menu both as a side ($7) and with his New Mexican spice-rubbed pork tenderloin entree ($29). Instead of using all masa cornmeal, Flay adds ground fresh corn to give them a light, couscouslike texture.
“It’s the easiest thing to make,” he says, “and the perfect dish to serve guests during the Super Bowl. People garnish them as they will.”