THE only way to get to Laguna Lodge is by boat. Artfully perched on the mountainside on Guatamala’s dramatic volcano-fringed, mile-high Lake Atitlan — often called the most beautiful lake in the world — the palapa-roofed eco-resort has visitors who pull up to its dock wondering one thing. Who’s being voted off at tribal council tonight?
It’s not just the lush setting that makes it feel a little “Survivor”-ish; it’s the fact that Lake Atitlan remains somewhat of a find, even by Central American standards. Current visitors are mainly backpackers and language school participants who drink it up in the lakeside bars of Panajachel, or new-agers who “Omm” in the villages scattered around the shores.
But the improved airport in Guatemala City three hours away, the lasting peace that has ensued since the long civil war ended 15 years ago and the constant search for new travel adventures has the area poised for growth.
So when Laguna Lodge in the tiny lake village of Santa Cruz (which even lacks a connecting road) was conceived by Antipodean transplants Mayah and Jefferson “Jeffro” Dent five years ago, they adopted as their mission a “tread lightly” ethic in the extreme.
What is now a state of the art eco-hotel began life as a tear down, acquired when the Dents began buying up land with the idea of creating a nature reserve. The lake parcel contained a basic hut with a tin roof and no floor, and Jeffro — a builder by trade — began fixing it up to use as a clubhouse for friends.
“So even the idea began organically,” he laughed. “Gradually, we formed the concept of a luxury hotel using all the best possible environmentally sustainable ideals.”
In the extreme makeover, the structure itself was recycled and enlarged using locally quarried adobe clay bricks, native trees from the reserve (more were re-planted than harvested) and stones washed down from the hillside during the devastating rain from Hurricane Stan in 2005. Palm and bamboo are from sustainable plantations on the Pacific coast. Solar power, lake irrigation, recycled glass, unbleached hypoallergenic bedding and low water use appliances are just the start of the eco-ethic they brought on board.
The Lodge opened just over a year ago and, despite its humble beginnings, now looks like it has stepped out of the pages of a chic design magazine. Furnishings and artwork are either antique or from local artisans. The six luxury suites are spacious, with a private palm-fringed balcony to take in the panoramic view of lake and volanoes.
On warm sunny mornings, the lake is the place to be, swimming and kayaking in the calm waters (only low environmental impact sports here), before the midday Xochomil breeze starts up and chops up the waves. Hiking in the Tzantizotz private reserve created behind the Lodge offers ceremonial Mayan relics, unbelievable views and eventually palapas and hammocks for those fit enough to climb to the top. Cliff jumping and volcano hiking are available for the intrepid. Spa services, a lakeside sauna and a volcanic rock spa pool round out the day.
Lake Atitlan locals comprise all the staff at the Lodge, from the manager on down, so guests enjoy an immersion experience — a family atmosphere makes guests feel literally at home.
The Zotz restaurant and bar is open to that awesome view by day; romantically candlelit and warmed by a fireplace by night (fuelled only by naturally fallen brushwood, naturally). Cuisine is delicious and vegetarian, a more sustainable diet choice. Produce is grown in the Dents’ own hillside garden, or provided by local organic co-ops.
With many resorts tacking the word “eco” to their name when in fact all they do is wash the towels a bit less, Laguna Lodge has really set the bar high for travelers who want to see the world without destroying it.
“People are going to travel,” agreed Jeffro. “But here, they will have much less of an impact. They aren’t going to be hurting the country — in fact, they’ll be actually helping the people in it.”
Laguna Lodge rates start at $225 per night per suite; lagunalodgeatitlan.com