Spring is the perfect time to visit Budapest. The days are mild and warm, freshened by the cool breeze blowing off the Danube, which defines the city, running through the center and dividing it into two parts, Buda and Pest.
Soon to be showcased in the movie “The Grand Budapest Hotel” (out March 7), Budapest has all the energy of a European capital, but still retains a very human scale.
For years, it was seen as shabbier than its neighbor Vienna. But that is changing. A massive urban renewal project is transforming the area around Parliament. Dilapidated apartment buildings are being painted and renovated. New shops and cafes are springing up as a new generation of entrepreneurs puts its stamp on the city. Yet despite the rapid pace of change, old-fashioned courtesy endures: strangers still bid each other a good day and a gentleman always helps a lady on with her coat.
Start your visit by strolling around the Castle area on the Buda side. The narrow lanes and alleys are rich with restored Baroque architecture. The centerpiece is the Matyas Templom, the 1,000-year-old church that combines elements of Gothic and Romanesque. There’s also the former Royal Castle, dating back to the 13th century, which now houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the National Szechenyi Library.
From the Castle take the funicular down to the Chain Bridge, the most beautiful of the city’s bridges, and walk over the river into Pest. A quarter-hour stroll through downtown will bring you to the Dohany Street Synagogue, the largest in Europe. The synagogue, now beautifully restored, stands at the entrance to the former ghetto and a small plaque marks the ghetto’s liberation by the Soviet Red Army in January 1945.
The streets behind the synagogue are now the center of the city’s nightlife, famous as the home of the “ruin-pubs,” run-down former apartment buildings turned into multi-room bars and nightclubs, often with live performances. Visit Szimpla Kert (szimpla.hu/en) for a taste of Budapest at its Bohemian best.
EAT: Hungarian cuisine can be rich and heavy, with plenty of goose, duck and creamy cakes. However, a new wave of Hungarian chefs has lightened traditional dishes for the modern palate. One such place is Café Kor; the tasteful and homey spot is the insider’s choice for lunch or dinner. The Michelin-starred Onyx is tops in fine dining, but the three-course lunch menu at $22 is a bargain. VakVarju is packed every night with a youngish crowd. Macesz Huszar is a trendy Jewish bistro with a hip clientele. Doblo, a bohemian wine bar a short walk away, offers a great selection of Hungarian wines in a relaxed atmosphere.
EXPERIENCE: Hungary is rightly proud of its rich cultural heritage, and the Budapest Spring Festival, March 21 to April 6, is an annual highlight for music and arts aficionados. But don’t worry if your visit takes place later in the year. The newly restored Liszt Academy of Music has concerts year-round, as does the modern Palace of Arts.
DO: The Rudas Thermal Bath ($13), tucked away under the Buda side of the Elisabeth Bridge, is a jewel of Ottoman architecture. Built in the 15th century, it still retains many of its original features, including a magnificent domed roof and hot and cold pools, as well as newer steam rooms and saunas. Weekdays are men-only except Tuesdays, which is reserved for women, but Friday and Saturday nights offer mixed bathing.
STAY: The Four Seasons Gresham Palace is the city’s most elegant hotel, overlooking the Chain Bridge and the Danube. This beautifully restored building recalls the fin-de-siècle elegance of the art nouveau era a century ago and boasts a gourmet restaurant and modern spa. (From $470).
Adam LeBor is a writer based in Budapest.