Once seen as the responsible, dull older sister to fun, sassy Rio, São Paulo has come into its own with an exciting food and art scene.
Several years ago, when Rio became the hot winter destination, I’d ask my friends traveling to Brazil, “Well, what about São Paulo?” only to get sniffs, grunts or an eye roll in response. My friend Ricardo, an emerging markets banker, would always say, “São Paulo? Are you kidding me? You go there for work and get the hell out. There’s nothing to do there!”
And, I’m embarrassed to say, I let his and others’ opinions cloud my judgment — that, and I was a little intimidated. With more than 20 million people crammed into a never-ending sea of high-rises, São Paulo from afar gives off an industrial, anonymous, almost Soviet feel.
But I was wrong. And Ricardo was very wrong. For those of us into art and food, Brazil’s most populous city is a treasure trove of hidden gems.
ART THROB
Aesthetes should head to Beco de Batman (Batman’s Alley) in the Vila Madalena neighborhood for the best example of the city’s graffiti art. Every single wall along this 100-yard street is covered from top to bottom in surreal, expressive, jaw-dropping graffiti that has come to be the city’s calling card. The smallest details are seen to — the street lamps are covered in knitted cozies — and even if you spend days wandering the streets in this area, you’ll still feel like you missed something.
Beyond the street art is the city’s landscape, dotted with famed architect Oscar Niemeyer’s signature abstract and curved buildings, and the city’s art museum, the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), which houses Monets and Picassos along with some great graffiti art (masp.art.br).
TASTE MAKERS
Thirteen years ago, Alex Atala, a former punk rocker, DJ and party animal-turned-chef, opened D.O.M., firmly establishing São Paulo’s food-world credentials. The critics raved, and D.O.M. was rated the fourth-best restaurant in the world by Restaurant magazine in 2012. The food reminds me of Wylie Dufresne’s wd~50 in New York —experimental and scientific, yet elegant and delicious. Get the tasting menu to try the restaurant’s true range (it will be paired with wine or, oddly enough, infused waters), and be ready to weep at the most beautiful dish I’ve ever seen, a green tomato gel and flower soup, and the tastiest dish: aligot, a mixture of potatoes, crème fraîche and Brazilian cheese served tableside in a way reminiscent of the Mr. Chow noodle men who stretch and bang out their creations in front of the crowd (domrestaurante.com.br).
Another must-hit restaurant is Mani, in the Jardines (garden) district. Also tapped as one of the world’s 50 best restaurants, it has a farmhouse feel to it and combines contemporary and traditional food. The tapioca bread is spectacular, and the “perfect egg,” cooked at 63 degrees for over two hours, lives up to its billing (manimanioca.com.br).
For Mediterranean flavors, the Italian restaurant Fasano, located in the famed Fasano Hotel, is elegant and satisfying. The veal tortelli and the braised lamb are excellent, and the service is impeccable (fasano.com.br).
Skye, the rooftop restaurant at the uber-hip Unique Hotel, is worth the trip if only for the view of the city. The creative seafood dishes (try the sole steamed in champagne) are pricey, but nowhere else in São Paulo can you dine with such an expansive skyline vista (hotelunique.com.br).
It should also be noted that São Paulo, with its large Italian and Japanese communities, has excellent pizza and sushi restaurants. For the former, try the famous and popular-with-locals Bráz Pizzaria (casabraz.com.br). For the raw stuff, hit up Mori Sushi (morisushi.com.br), Sushi Yassu (sushiyassu.com.br) and Jun Sakamoto (Rua Lisboa, 55).
Note: São Paulo can seem intimidating, and sometimes it’s best to have a guide or someone to help with difficult restaurant reservations. Freelance journalist Carla Conte (conte.carlota@gmail.com) is one good option.
STRAIGHT TRIPPIN’
If you’re in São Paulo for a while, you should absolutely take the short flight to Iguazu Falls, named one of the New Seven Wonders of the Natural World in 2011. Situated in a national park on the borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay, Iguazu is astonishingly gorgeous. Stay at the Hotel Cataratas, located within the park and at the head of the falls. The hotel, once a favorite of Princess Diana’s, is in a converted and restored Portuguese Colonial residence and is run by the Orient Express group, thus ensuring great food and service. The hotel will most likely suggest a helicopter ride over the falls, starting at $150. Do it — it’s awe-inspiring (rooms from $425, hoteldascataratas.com).
Another quick trip is to the city of Curitiba, an hour away from São Paulo by air. An architecturally interesting city, Curitiba boasts a pizzeria, Mercearia Bresser, as good as any you will find in São Paulo (or maybe even Italy). Order the Judite pizza with parma ham — heavenly (merceariabresser.com.br).
Follow Paula Froelich on Twitter @Pfro.