When “downtown fixtures make the move uptown,” as East Pole’s publicity trumpets, it usually guarantees a “For Rent” sign in the window within a year.
But East Pole has conquered the north. The teams behind Orchard Street’s Fat Radish and the Brinkley’s gastropubs knew what to do with the old 212 space, and damn if the house isn’t kicking every night.
The clean-lined American bistro is framed in walnut, copper, whitewashed walls — and not a drop of attitude. Edison-style bulbs cast a flattering sheen on the 100 percent tablecloth-free space and 90 percent uptown crowd.
The menu’s almost better than it needs to be. Chef Nicholas Wilber’s subscription to the local, seasonal and organic catechism makes a real difference, even if waiters who’ve never heard of Angostura bitters talk your ear off about “artisanal” this and that.
The clientele are chatty, too. “I can tell you openly that your friend is a moron,” said bearded, wannabe Mr. Bushwick to his lady in thigh-baring shorts on a chilly night.
Cheap and charming grilled cheese ($8) stifled our giggles. The Vermont cheddar, brightened with a chutney-like spread on crunchy Pullman toast, can feed two; it’s hipped up with house-made pickles. The cheddar burger ($19), an oozy chuck and short-rib grind on a toasted brioche bun, is several ZIP codes removed from the WASPy, nondrip article common in these parts. Thick, duck-fat fries add to the fun.
Warm cauliflower with lentils would almost make the cut at ABC Kitchen — but not heirloom carrots, monochromatic in flavor despite their multicolor plumage. “Signature” chicken Kiev, despite a promising first-bite squirt, seemed to be filled with nothing more than butter. Orecchiette ($18) in rich tomato sauce would embarrass most neighborhood renditions, and fleshy, crisp-skinned black bass acquitted itself smartly over sunchokes and sunchoke puree.
A table of gorgeous young women mysteriously sporting pointed, Wicked Witch hats a month after Halloween ordered only desserts. They’re good clean fun, but beware the $5 extra charge for vanilla ice cream with apple pie.
And watch out: You can spend more than you planned to. Cocktails (excellent) and many wines by the glass (variable) are $15 and $16. There’s a $2 charge for bread. A “simple” 90-minute dinner, admittedly with more items than two of us would normally have, took us for $235.06.
But East Pole is just what the East 60s needed, and the nabe has set its compass to return.