‘How them hogs doin’?”
Myron Mixon asks a passing henchman.
The self-proclaimed “baddest pitmaster that ever was” is surveying operations at his soon-to-open East Village restaurant, Pride and Joy, where a pair of whole pigs are emerging from a massive cast-iron smoker.
Cooking entire hogs on huge smokers is a pursuit best left to pros like Mixon, a perennial winner on the competition barbecue circuit and a judge on the Discovery show “BBQ Pitmasters.”
But when he sits down at a table with his hand wrapped around a double Crown Royal, the topic is Barbecue 101. It’s in keeping with the subject of Mixon’s new book, “Everyday Barbecue,” which aims to demystify the process for the novice looking to smoke meat at home. It’s not rocket science, says Mixon, noting that a standard kettle grill or even gas one will serve just fine.
It’s a lesson New Yorkers appear to be ready for, says Mixon, citing the booming number of NYC barbecue spots. “That tells me that the people in this city have a need and a want for good barbecue,” he says. “They also have a need and a want to try to do it themselves.”
To that end, some tips from Master Mixon:
1. Use indirect heat. Yes, you’re using a grill, but smoking isn’t grilling. You’re going for slow cooking at a low temperature, which means using indirect heat. So you want a smaller fire, and you want to bank your charcoal to one side, with your meat on the other side. (Or put coals on both sides, with meat in the center.) Same deal with a gas grill: turn on the left and right burners and leave the center one off, and put your meat in the middle.
2. Keep the fire low. “Getting things too hot is the worst thing you can do, and that’s what happens a lot,” says Mixon. The temperature should be around 250 degrees, so instead of a roaring fire, build a small one that smolders. Use a small pile of charcoal: “Light it at the very top only, using a little fluid, and let the charcoal burn down,” he says.
3. Soak your wood. When using charcoal, the smoke flavor comes from wood chips. Soak them in water overnight, enclose in a foil pouch and poke a few holes in the top, then set it in the fire. Reload as needed.
4. Don’t sauce too soon. Some purists eschew sauce entirely, believing the meat is all that should matter; others believe it should only be introduced after cooking. Mixon lands in neither camp, but he warns against applying sauce too soon instead of during the last 30 minutes of cooking, which can lead to burning.
5. Finally, don’t overlook the oven. An apartment dweller can still turn out a decent brisket or slab of ribs, notes Mixon, whose book includes oven directions.
“I’m not going to sit here and tell you it’s going to taste as good as smoked meat, but you can do OK with it,” he says. And anyway, you’ll be applying a time-honored barbecue maxim: “You make do with what you got.”
4 steps to Mixon’s perfect brisket
The Only Barbecue Sauce You Need
Combine 2 tablespoons onion powder, ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar, 2 tablespoons garlic powder, 2 tablespoons honey, two 6-ounce cans tomato paste, 2 tablespoons maple syrup, 2 tablespoons paprika, 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 2/3 cup cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper and 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce in a blender and pulse a couple of times to thoroughly combine. Pour the mixture into a medium saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir continuously until the sauce is heated through, but do not allow it to come to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat. Use the sauce immediately as you like, or allow the mixture to cool, then pour it into a large container and store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 year.
Makes about 3 cups.
The Only Rub You Need
In a large bowl, combine 1 cup packed light brown sugar, 2 tablespoons chili powder, 2 tablespoons mustard powder, 2 tablespoons onion powder, 2 tablespoons garlic powder, 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoons kosher salt and 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper. Stir thoroughly. You can store in an airtight container for up to 1 year. Makes just under 2 cups
Brisket the Easy Way
Place one 5-pound trimmed, flat-cut brisket in an aluminum pan. Pour 2 cups Only Marinade (see below left)over it. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight.
Thirty minutes before you are ready to cook the brisket, prepare a charcoal grill or gas grill for smoking and heat it to high heat.
Remove the brisket from the marinade and discard the marinade. Let the meat come to room temperature and then, with your hands, apply ³/₄ cup Only Rub all over the meat. Place the brisket in a clean aluminum pan, place the pan in the smoker, and cook uncovered for 1 hour.
Remove the pan from the smoker and cover it with aluminum foil. Put it back into the smoker and cook for another 30 to 45 minutes until the internal temperature registers 205°F. Remove the pan from the smoker and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Remove the brisket from the pan and slice it against the grain. Place the slices on a warm platter and pour the brisket’s pan juices over them. Serve immediately with 2 cups Only Sauce.
Make it in the oven: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Marinate the brisket and apply rub as directed above. In a very large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add the brisket and cook over medium-high heat on the stovetop, turning, until browned all over, about 12 minutes.
Pour 2 cups of chicken stock or water into a large aluminum baking pan. Using tongs, transfer the brisket into the pan. Cover with aluminum foil and roast in the oven for 1 hour. Remove the foil, baste the brisket, and continue to roast for another 30 minutes, or until the internal temperature registers 205°F. Transfer the brisket to a carving board and let rest for 30 minutes. Carve and serve immediately.
Serves 8
The Only Marinade You Need
In a large, heavy saucepan, combine 2 cups apple juice and 1 cup distilled white vinegar and whisk over medium heat. Whisking continuously, pour in ³/₄ cup sugar and ³/₄ cup kosher salt. Continue whisking until the seasonings are completely dissolved, but do not allow mixture to come to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and cool completely. You can store in a tightly covered container for up to 1 year.
Makes 1 quart