Although classic bitter cocktails like the Manhattan, Negroni and Sazerac never went away, mixologists are discovering nifty new ways to shake up the traditional tipples by adding Campari, Aperol and other, homemade tinctures to their bar menus. The resurgence in cocktail culture — and a boom in the artisanal bitters market — is spawning a spirited interest in the digestifs. “Bitters can be both the bartender’s spice rack and herb garden,” says Mayur Subbarao, mixologist at Louro. “Bitters and amari can introduce a range of subtle accents into a drink because of their complexity.” Taste the trend for yourself with at some of the hottest spots around the city.
(Zandy Mangold)
(Gabi Porter)
(Gabi Porter)
(Zandy Mangold)
(Zandy Mangold)
SPICY AND SPIRITED
LOURO
142 W. 10th St., 212-206-0606
The spirit-forward Whiskey in the Jar ($12) is one of the most popular cocktails on the menu at West Village restaurant Louro. Why? “It’s really approachable,” says mixologist Mayur Subbarao. “The flavor is similar to a shaken fruit drink, but it’s presented as a stirred cocktail.” The cocktail combines Irish whiskey, ginger, and grapefruit and lemon juices with Campari, Tiki bitters and Peychaud’s bitters. Don’t be fooled by its bright orange hue: this is definitely not a drink for the faint-hearted.
BOLD AND BOOZY
LEAVE ROCHELLE OUT OF IT
19 Stanton St., 212-673-2400
The just-opened Lower East Side restaurant and bar — named for a mutual crush of the two owners — highlights more than 60 varieties of whiskey. Wild Turkey Rare Breed, a high-proof, spicy bourbon, is featured in The Old Pal ($13), alongside Campari, vermouth and Angostura bitters. It can be served either on the rocks or with a lemon twist. “At about 108 proof, this bourbon is perfect to stand up to the other ingredients,” says co-owner Stephen Yorsz. (Whether you’ll be able to stand up after knocking back a couple is another matter.)
COOL AND CRISP
THE DEAD RABBIT
30 Water St., 646-422-7906
Jack McGarry, the barman at the Financial District watering hole The Dead Rabbit, describes the Mamie Taylor ($14) as a “scotch-ginger-ita.” Translation? It’s light and refreshing — and not overly boozy — so you can sip a few over the course of an evening without getting into too much trouble. The secret ingredient is a tincture made from mace, a spice that tastes like a mild nutmeg and lends a slightly sweet flavor to the cocktail. It rounds out the rest of the drink, made from Boker’s bitters, the Italian herbal liqueur Strega, lime and scotch.
MODERN AND BUBBLY
SONS OF ESSEX
133 Essex St., 212-674-7100
The Stanton Spritz ($13) is a dramatic twist on the classic Negroni. The Aperol-bitter bevvie, created by Sons of Essex mixologist Royce Chen for the Lower East Side bar, combines St. Germain, Prosecco, lemon juice and vodka for a summery spin on the drink highlighting the bitter attributes of Aperol. Says Chen, “It has all the components of a nice warm-weather drink — light, bubbly, fruit-flavored and just sweet enough.”
BALANCED AND SOPHISTICATED
RED ROOSTER
310 Lenox Ave., 212-792-9001
“I wanted to introduce Harlem to something more tart,” says Red Rooster’s Beverage Director L. Lonn Coward about his Uptown Sour ($14). “It’s the perfect marriage of sweet and sour.” The drink is an update on the New York Sour and the New York Mash. Red Rooster’s version is made with Alibi America Whiskey — a blended corn and rye spirit featuring clean, not overly oaked flavors — as well as amaro, lemon juice, honey syrup and bitters. For a final flourish, the drink is topped with half an ounce of Malbec or merlot.
LIGHT AND BRIGHT
THE ROEBLING SPORTINGCLUB
225 N. Eight St., Williamsburg, 718-388-3088
The Roebling Sporting Club’s Bushwick Shore ($10) just might be the perfect way to transition from summer to fall. The vodka-based tipple, created by managing partner and barman Sean Rawlinson, starts with a rich pomegranate base — made from POM juice reduced with anise and orange peel — and a hint of lime that’s refreshing in the summertime, yet seasonally appropriate for fall. House-made rhubarb bitters add depth.