Sexy, sky-high stilettos have come a long way in the past two decades — from only being sold in fetish shops to being displayed in high-end stores and now to a new exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Technology, opening Friday.
“The great fashion photographer Helmut Newton said that back in the 1970s and early ’80s, he couldn’t find the kind of really sexy shoes he wanted for his photographs unless he went to fetish stores,” says Valerie Steele, co-curator of the new show, “Shoe Obsession.”
“By the 1990s, all of the major shoe designers — Chanel, Dior, plus people like Christian Louboutin — were creating shoes that were extremely sexy with very, very high heels with bondage straps.”
On display are 150 pairs of outrageous heels borrowed from the closets of celebrity collectors like Daphne Guinness and inspired by trendsetters like Lady Gaga. Here’s a sneak peek.
ROGER VIVIER
The dramatic “Eyelash Heel Pump” — with its feather-accented heel — is the favorite of FIT curator Valerie Steele. “What’s so extraordinary about it is that Bruno Frisoni, the designer for Roger Vivier, has drawn your attention to the heel, not just by focusing on the heel itself but by having these decorative feathers emerge from the top,” she says.
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
The name of the whimsical “Daffodile Déjà Vu” shoe references the googly eyes that are covering it. They are a favorite of Daphne Guinness, who donated a similar pair to the exhibit. You can tell it’s a Christian Louboutin thanks to his signature red soles.
PRADA
The “Flame Shoe” has been a favorite of celebs like Beyoncé since it was created for the Prada spring 2012 collection. The pair on display is on loan from jewelry designer Lynn Ban. “Prada is seen as an intellectual women’s brand,” says Colleen Hill, co-curator of the exhibit. “To understand Prada’s clothing and to purchase her accessories says that you really understand fashion.”
MASAYA KUSHINO
The ponytail on Masaya Kushino’s “Wind Horse” shoe (below) is made of real human hair, paired with lace laid over leather with a wooden heel. “In terms of everyday wear, it would be difficult,” Hill says, “but it’s really about making an art piece.”
NORITAKA TATEHANA
Japanese designer Noritaka Tatehana is famous for his gravity-defying heelless shoes. He designed the “Lady Pointe” — ballet-slipper-inspired, 18-inch leather platforms — for a TV appearance for Lady Gaga. This pair was specially made for the Museum at FIT.
