Most of us are well aware of the recent ramen revolution (Momofuku, Minka, Setagaya). But when it comes to Japanese tempura bars, the city is an open field. Josh DeChellis, who cooked in Tokyo and Kyoto before opening Sumile (a restaurant he’s no longer involved with), has partnered with Rick Camac (5 Ninth and Fatty Crab) to open BarFry, a restaurant dedicated to this elegant and delicate form of frying. DeChellis spent several months testing more than 100 recipes to find the perfect light and flaky tempura batter and, with his secret recipe under lock and key, he opened BarFry on Aug. 22. At this West Village spot, he offers a roster of hot, crisp, à la minute tempura that includes everything from cod to asparagus to pork cutlets ($3 to $10 per piece). He’s also serving salads (not fried), po’ boys ($11 to $14), and sides of wasabi and olive oil pickles ($6) and asparagus with soy, yuzu and nori ($8).
But what would fried food be without beer? Thankfully, DeChellis enlisted Rogue Brewery in Newport, Ore., to brew one especially for the restaurant called JD Gaijin Pale Ale ($7), named for the Japanese slag for “Americans” (gaijin). Sake sangria ($12), a concise tempura-friendly wine list and serious cocktails like the Darky Mark (Maker’s Mark, pomegranate and bitters, $12) should provide enough beverage variety for all 20 thirst-inducing tempura options.
Must-have meal: The Bar Fry Salad (lettuces, shaved vegetables, Asian pear, $8), The Chef’s Box (a selection of daily tempura plus two sides – shishito peppers and sautéed peal leaves with lemon and XO sauce – and a special sauce like jalapeÑo soy or red chili citrus, market price) and green tea cupcakes ($5).
50 Carmine
St.; (212) 929-5050,
barfrynyc.com. Hours: Sun.-Wed. 5 p.m. to midnight, Thurs., Fri. and Sat. 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.
The humble cup of tea has always lived in the shadow of coffee, but Sanctuary T, a new cork-paneled restaurant bar and café that opened August 20th in SoHo, is going a long way to change that. Owned by former investment banker and online tea aficionado Dawn Cameron, and run by GM and consultant, Aleksandra Milicevic (Les Halles), Sanctuary T is a relaxing urban oasis that features more than 50 types of tea, including the signature Geisha Beauty, a refreshing blend of green tea, black tea, flowers and peaches. And if the herbal hot drink is just too sedate for you, they’ve also created a slate of tea-infused cocktails by Benoit Cornet like the Coral Reef: tangerine green tea with passion fruit, Cointreau, tequila and pink peppercorns ($12). Chef Kevin Stanton will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, in addition to a classic afternoon tea service with finger sandwiches, pastries and scones and clotted cream ($25 to $35 with champagne). There will also be board games (chess, checkers, Trivial Pursuit) and free Wi-Fi.
Must-have meal: Short-rib terrine cooked in Guinness beer with celery root salad and horseradish cream ($14), chicken ballontine with smoked paprika, stuffed with goat cheese, prosciutto and chanterelles ($15), and the chocolate torte with chai ice cream ($8).
337B West Broadway; (212) 941-7832; sanctuarytea.com. Hours: Mon-Thurs 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., Fri-Sat 8 a.m. to 12:30 a.m., Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.