Travel

How to spend your krone in Oslo

With a buzzy new waterfront arts district, a burgeoning cocktail scene, a recently opened food hall and an emphasis on farm-to-table (or, more accurately, sea-to-table) cuisine, Oslo is getting a whole lot more interesting. We’ve rounded up the best places to spend your precious Norwegian krone.

SEE

Edvard Munch is getting one heck of a 150th birthday celebration with two big shows at the National Gallery (nasjonalmuseet.no) and his namesake Munch Museum (munch.museum.no) — both through Oct. 13. The former displays most of his greatest hits; one gallery features nearly all of the 22 paintings from his famous 1902 Berlin exhibit, “The Frieze of Life,” which includes the iconic “Scream.” (Munch pass, around $21; good for these and several other museums)

Whether you consider a huge porcelain sculpture of Michael Jackson and his monkey high art or high kitsch, Jeff Koons’ “Bubbles,” along with a slew of Damien Hirsts and Matthew Barneys, figure prominently at the contemporary Astrup Fearnley Museum. The real star, though, is the stunning, year-old, Renzo Piano-designed complex — two wood-and-glass-canopied buildings separated by a canal — part of the rising harborfront arts district on Tjuvholmen, a k a Thief Island. (Admission, around $16.50; afmuseet.no)

EAT

The best way to explore the 30-odd stalls, shops and restaurants of Oslo’s first food hall, Mathallen, which opened last October in the emerging Vulkan neighborhood, is by reserving a spot at the Taste of Mathallen buffet. Inside what was once a brick factory, you can sample everything from Norwegian salmon to French cheeses to whale — yup, Norway is one of only two countries where it’s legal. (Sundays at 4 p.m., around $42; mathallenoslo.no)

At nearby Akersberget, some 70 rare brews complement the gourmet beer-infused fare (delicate lemon sole with beer-boiled potatoes; creamy white asparagus and beer soup). There’s the cozy setting inside a 250-year-old wood house, but on warm evenings the garden, fronting an abandoned silver mine, is where to sit and sip. (Five-course menu, around $96; akersberget.no)

The iconic, centrally located Grand Hotel just revealed their revamped Palm Court restaurant, which pays homage to the original 1913 design but with a modern twist. Settle into one of the high-backed, deep-green velour chairs or a cushy banquette and order a smørbrød (open-faced sandwich) for lunch — just like a real Norwegian. (Two-course lunch menu, around $54; grand.no)

DRINK

Grünerløkka — a ’hood filled with young creatives and hipsters, just like a certain New York borough — is where you’ll find Bar Boca (Thorvald Meyers gate 30), which opened 15 years ago and graduated dozens of Oslo’s best mixologists. One still manning the tiny bar is Einar Kaupang, who can stir a mean martini using zesty, saffron-infused Old Raj gin (around $19) or reimagine a classic (the usual too-sweet Hurricane is tempered here with buckthorn-Campari syrup, pepper and celery bitters, around $21).

One of Boca’s famed alums is Jesper Høst, who represented Norway in the World Class Bartender competition and is now head barkeep at the swank speakeasy No. 19 (no-19.no), a dimly lit refuge in the city center. Innovative cocktails include the Black Pearl (with Fernet Branca, pastis and cane molasses, around $21), or challenge Høst to come up with a concoction just for you.

For views of greater Oslo, the rooftop terrace at Etoile (grand.no), atop the Grand Hotel, is hard to beat. The drinks menu is still being finalized, but ask for something with aquavit and you’ll do just fine — ours was pretty and potent, with Luxardo cherry liqueur and fresh raspberries, (around $19).

The Astrup Fearnley Art Museum.Amy T. Zielinski

STAY

A cast-iron figure by sculptor Antony Gormley lies prone just outside the entrance; in the lobby hangs a huge Richard Prince image of a horse and cowboy — contemporary art is clearly a big deal at Oslo’s first luxury designer hotel, The Thief, which opened in January on Tjuvholmen. Scattered throughout the property and the 119 rooms and suites are works on loan from its neighbor, the Astrup Fearnley Museum; try for a room with a balcony that overlooks the museum and the gorgeous Oslofjord. There’s also an excellent breakfast and a glorious rooftop bar; a spa opens next year. (From around $328.50, with breakfast; thethief.com)

LOWDOWN

This oil-rich country is one of the world’s most expensive. At 17 cents to the krone, here are some ways to save.

Oslo Pass — Available for 24, 36 and 72 hours, the pass is actually worth it, offering free entry to the major museums and free public transport throughout the city (it’s hilly, you’ll need it), plus free and discounted sightseeing tours. (From around $44.50)

Airport Express Train — It’s super clean, leaves every 10 minutes, whisks you to the center of town in 20 minutes, has free Wi-Fi and costs just $28 (a taxi is three times that). Brilliant!

Hit up duty-free— Norway taxes alcohol like crazy, with the average cocktail around $20. Pick up a bottle of vino or scotch at the airport to enjoy a cheap hotel room nightcap.

Norwegian Air Shuttle — New Dreamliners, free WiFi and cheap flights. Save from the get-go on this low-cost airline; nonstop from JFK to Oslo, thrice weekly, starts at $696 (taxes included). Compare that to the tired SAS fleet, with flights from Newark from $960, and it’s a no-brainer. (norwegian.com)