Food & Drink

NYC’s best soft shell crab dishes

1 of 5
043012133124–768×949.jpg

BREAKFAST Soft-shell Crab Egg Sandwich $18 at Craftbar, 900 Broadway Start the day with what Craftbar chef de cuisine Lauren Hirschberg calls “sweet, awesome crabbiness.” His version of this season’s shellfish du jour, is an amplified egg sandwich: pan-toasted baguette, Old Bay aioli (the ultimate crab-ready mayo, house-made), pickled ramp relish, bibb lettuce, shishito peppers (mild about 90-percent of the time), one buttermilk Wondra fried jumbo crab, and two over-easy eggs. “This time of year everyone’s excited for something that’s not butternut squash,” says Hirschberg, referring to the winter staple. So excited that his purveyor recently shorted his order. “Some [chef] downtown begged him for a dozen.”

2 of 5
042712CrabZM07133117–768×949.jpg

LUNCH Buckwheat Noodle Salad and Crunchy Soft-shell Crabs $18 at The Mark Restaurant, 25 E. 77th St. Created as a twist on the classic hot soba with tempura, this dish will satisfy every sense: It’s hot and cold, crunchy and soft, tangy and sweet. Plus, it’s loaded. Aside from the tempura crab and soba noodles, there’s arugula, avocado, mint, pickled chilies, pistachios, ramps, spring peas, in a sesame vinaigrette. Each equally-balanced bite is different, and better than the next. Greg Brainin, director of culinary development, who composed the plate, right down to the hand-rolled soba, says, “Soft-shell crabs marry well with a vast array of flavors and preparations.”

3 of 5
042712Tangled_Vine_DR_084133147–768×949.jpg

HAPPY HOUR Soft-shell Crab Montadito $16 at The Tangled Vine Wine Bar & Kitchen,434 Amsterdam Ave. Thirsty and hungry? At the witching hour, try chef John Conlin III’s cornmeal-crusted, pan-fried jumbo soft-shell crab with pickled spring onions, generous watercress and ramp aioli in a soft shell (yes) that’s part tortilla, part spongy bun. Together, this is a montadito; a small stack, a tapas sandwich, and it pairs perfectly with Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverny 2009 ($12 a glass). “Together they make an indulgent spring bite,” says Conlin

4 of 5
043012CrabZM10133136–1024×693.jpg

DINNER Jerked Carolina Baby Soft-shell Crab $27.95 at Grand Central Oyster Bar,89 E. 42nd St. Jerome Brody, the original owner (and guy in the framed picture above the bar), was a big fan of baby soft-shell crabs, says executive chef Sandy Ingber, which is why this gigantic salad entree has five of ’em on top of field greens, with passion-fruit poppy dressing, mango salsa and hearts of palm. The low heat from the jerk sauce — brushed on gently before grilling — is well-balanced with the fruits and zingy dressing. “European tourists try to pick them out of the shell,” says the 22-year GCOB veteran, laughing. “Any way we serve them, they’re popular.” He has about 100 variations, many of which will hit the menu throughout the season. Though, this one will be hard to beat.

5 of 5
042712CrabZM49456133106–1024×693.JPG

SNACK Soft-shell Crab Lettuce Wrap $17 at Zengo, 622 Third Ave. Snacks are meant to be eaten with your hands, so wash up and dive into executive chef Nicholas Kayser’s Cangrejo enchilado, a perfect, curvy piece of bibb lettuce containing half a pan-roasted jumbo soft-shell, carrot and daikon escabeche (a sort of pickled slaw), cilantro, and avocado kaffir-lime crema fresca. Dip in the accompanying Thai-chili shrimp oil before biting. Once bitten, these Cuban-Vietnamese wraps leak out their flavorful juices. Napkins advised.