GUATEMALA — a tropical, picturesque, adventure-filled destination — is what Costa Rica used to be.
Because the tourist hordes haven’t discovered it yet, Guatemala remains affordable. The Central American country, bordering southern Mexico, is still a spot where $100 can get budget-minded travelers their own bungalow and all meals for a day, with money left over for a turtle race (yes, a turtle race).
Here are three off-the-beaten-path must-dos that give you a feel for the country, its culture and its history.
Monterrico
Monterrico is famous for its never-ending volcanic black-sand beaches, azure blue waters and a relaxed, family atmosphere.
It’s always a good sign when you go where the actual denizens of a country vacation. It generally means smart accommodations without the expense of a tourist resort (and minus the tourists). Pez de Oro (bungalows from $60, pezdeoro.com) at the end of the Monterrico strip, doesn’t disappoint. Quaint, colorful, with great service and food, Pez features individual bungalows with high, thatched roofs, tiled or polished, painted concrete floors, ceiling fans and carved-wood furniture. Each comes with a private balcony or porch with an ocean view.
In the morning, visit the mangrove forest. The back canals are used as local highways, transporting cars, goods and people on small flat-bed boats, but a large area is off-limits to commercial transportation and is a designated a bird sanctuary. Tour it by canoe and spot herons, eagles and even flying fish. An excellent guide can be found at the turtle sanctuary next door to Pez — our guide, Noy, was extremely knowledgeable, although his English was not the best.
In the evenings, between January and March, the turtle sanctuary sets hatchling turtles free. For $5 you can get your very own turtle and race it against others.
Eat at Taberna El Pelicano — 40 feet away from Pez. The menu is longer and more creative than anything else in town, and features a variety of pastas, entrees, vegetarian dishes, desserts and a list of daily specials, which usually includes jumbo shrimp grilled to perfection.
Panajachel, Lake Atitlán
This original hippie paradise is a huge volcanic caldera, surrounded by five other picturesque volcanoes in the Sierra Madre Range. It still has some long-haired stragglers that smell of patchouli, but the majority of the crowd these days is more upscale. The Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo (from $120, posadadedonrodrigo.com) is a historic and visually stunning former home with ivy-covered walls and views of the lake and surrounding volcanoes. The centrally located hotel has a beautiful interior courtyard and the restaurant is fantastic — try the chile rellenos and the homemade chorizo for a local slice of culinary heaven .
Chichicastenango
This Mayan mountain town has the largest indigenous market in Central America. Thursday and Sunday are the main market days in this former Mayan capital, when tribesmen descend on the city to sell their wares. Yes, there is an inundation of tchotchkes — you will never see a larger collection of colorfully painted masks or “hand-woven” bedspreads — but there is also an amazing array of hand-stitched Mayan textiles, artifacts, stone carvings and pottery.
In the middle of the market is a food court of sorts — where I found the tastiest fried chicken I think I’ve ever had (and I’m from Ohio and Kentucky!). A half-chicken with a side of veggies is just $2.50, and don’t worry about making a mess: Dogs and (soon-to-be doomed) chickens roam the area eating anything that’s dropped on the floor.
If you want a guide (and I would suggest one, if only for a tour of the cemetery and the local Mayan ruins), arrange one with your hotel. (Do not get one from the market — you will be approached several times.) Set a price before hand and confirm it as you set out on the tour.
Situated in a historic hacienda, every room at the Mayan Inn (from $102, mayaninn.com.gt) has a huge fireplace (it gets cold at nights). Be sure to ask for a room on the second floor, not on the main street, and check your sheets. My friends had great sheets; mine were awful — scratchy, pill-y — and no amount of asking could get the hotel staff to change them.
The tastiest local food — including chile rellenos, churrasco and street tacos — and an amazing wine selection is at Casa San Juan (6 Avenida 7-28, +502 4090-4305). Located behind the main cathedral, it is a little tricky to find but worth it.
SIDE TRIP
Iximché and Guatemala City
You can’t go to Guatemala without seeing some actual Mayan ruins, but instead of driving 12 hours to Tikal, it’s an easy one-hour drive from Chichicastenango to the ruins of Iximché — the capital of the Kaqchikel Mayan empire from 1470 until 1524, when the Spanish invaded. Even better, modern-day Mayan priests still do ceremonies there so head to the large ancient altar toward the back of the ruins and hopefully catch a live demonstration.
And once you’re in Tikal, you’re just two hours away from Guatemala City. Guatemala City is surprisingly chic. While Panama City has been getting all the media attention, GC has quietly convened a upscale community of artists, food lovers and musicians.
When she found out I was going to Guatemala, Kelly Cutrone — the fearsome television personality, stylist and brand manager — insisted I go to Jake’s (restaurantejakes.com). A former NYC artist, Jake Denburg built this lively restaurant in a rustic former coffee farmhouse that hosts the city’s elite and serves the finest steak in the city.
Getting around Guatemala
Use a car service — you do not want to shave years off your life on a chicken bus. The drivers show up on time and transport you from city to city with scenic stops in between destinations. Sergio Castaneda’s Pelican Transport (+502 5202-1611) offers clean vans, reasonable prices and English-speaking drivers. (Request Freddy — he is muy tranquilo and saved our lives at least twice.)