Food & Drink

Brooklyn’s Franklin Avenue is suddenly delicious

Until recently, the main thoroughfares of Crown Heights — which stretched between quiet blocks of historic brownstones — were bleakly dotted with discount stores and shuttered retail spaces. But today, the area — particularly Franklin Avenue and the surrounding streets, which are serviced by the A, C, 2, 3, 4 and 5 subway lines — is evolving into a new foodie mecca, complete with rustic Italian restaurants, bustling bars and even shops hawking locally made cheeses. And the frenzy’s not stopping anytime soon — check out the newest spots to eat and drink in Crown Heights these days.

Pick up locally made cheese at Wedge Cheese Shop.

Pick up locally made cheese at Wedge Cheese Shop. (Zandy Mangold)

Shake things up at Mexican eatery Chavela’s with the mouth-watering taco plate (below).

Shake things up at Mexican eatery Chavela’s with the mouth-watering taco plate (below). (Gabi Porter)

At Cent’anni, locals can dine al fresco on house made pastas (below).

At Cent’anni, locals can dine al fresco on house made pastas (below). (Gabi Porter)

Neapolitan-style pizzas topped with arugula are on the menu at Barboncino.

Neapolitan-style pizzas topped with arugula are on the menu at Barboncino. (Zandy Mangold)

Duck confit and grilled radicchio at Glady’s.

Duck confit and grilled radicchio at Glady’s. (Gabi Porter)

Cajun-inspired fare at Catfish includes this alligator meat Bayou burger.

Cajun-inspired fare at Catfish includes this alligator meat Bayou burger. (Zandy Mangold)

Franklin Park helped spark the influx of new restaurants in Crown Heights.

Franklin Park helped spark the influx of new restaurants in Crown Heights. (Gabi Porter)

Nostrand Avenue Pub specializes in craft beers and whiskeys.

Nostrand Avenue Pub specializes in craft beers and whiskeys. (Gabi Porter)

MAYFIELD, 688 FRANKLIN AVE., 347-318-3643

When Mayfield chef and co-owner Lev Gewirtzman first moved to Crown Heights seven years ago, Franklin Avenue was lined with vacant storefronts. “There was nothing here,” says Gewirtzman. “I had a feeling the neighborhood was going to pop . . . it was not a question of if, but when.” He also felt the proximity to so many subway lines was a promising sign of the area’s potential.

So at the end of last year, he and his partners opened up this restaurant, serving up seasonal American fare such as seafood — including an oyster and ceviche raw bar — and fresh vegetables such as wild dandelion greens with a crispy poached egg, pickled onions and Jambon de Bayonne ($10).

THE WEDGE CHEESE SHOP, 728B FRANKLIN AVE., NO PHONE

Husband-wife duo Kate Blumm and Michael de Zayas moved to Crown Heights two years ago and opened a coffee shop, Little Zelda, a year later. But residents wanted more. “A lot of people said, ‘It would be so great if we could get really great local eggs to go with it,’ or, ‘Do you sell ricotta cheese?’ ” says Blumm. So, in May, the couple opened a gourmet goods shop next door, selling locally made cheeses, freshly baked bread and artisanal chocolates. “The first time people come in, they’re so excited,” says Lilith Spencer, the cheesemonger. “I keep hearing, ‘Finally! We had to go pretty far in either direction to get this.’ ”

CHAVELA’S, 736 FRANKLIN AVE., 718-622-3100

For years, one of the only dining options in the area was chef-owner Arturo Leonar’s casual Mexican eatery, which opened on Classon Avenue in 2006. Leonar moved to the area the year before and realized there was no place to eat. The small space, which focused on southern Mexican street food and homestyle cooking, was always packed with regulars — so two years ago, he moved to the current Franklin Avenue location, which boasts twice as many seats. “We still have locals, but also have drawn people from Park Slope and Bushwick,” says Leonar of the new spot. He’s boosted the menu with nibbles like tilapia steamed in banana leaves, served over rice ($16). Drinks include the Don Pepino ($9), a cocktail of El Jimador reposado, cucumber and cilantro in a glass rimmed with spicy-salty Tajin seasoning.

CENT’ANNI, 742 FRANKLIN AVE., 718-942-5201

“Every neighborhood needs a good Italian restaurant,” says Kal Narvilas, and who opened Cent’anni, serving handmade pastas, slow-cooked sauces and ragus, two weeks ago. “I’m a little in shock and very proud to be this guy — the first guy to put an Italian restaurant in this neighborhood. I can’t believe there aren’t 10 of them.” The dark-wood-filled space opens up to a backyard where diners can enjoy a glass of vino al fresco with southern Italian fare, like arugula-pistachio-pesto orecchiette with potatoes and string beans ($11) and the house specialty, rigatoni in a rich ragu with meatballs and sausage ($12).

BARBONCINO, 781 FRANKLIN AVE., 718-483-8834

Quickly after Chavela’s debuted in its new location across the street, Ron Brown, who was pizza trained near Naples, opened up his Neapolitan-style pizzeria, proving locals were willing to shell out $17 for 12-inch artisanal pies with toppings like arugula, fior di latte mozzarella, shaved parmesan, cherry tomatoes and prosciutto ($18). “There was nothing unfriendly about the neighborhood,” says Brown. “From the moment I started building, people were saying, ‘Bless you, bless you.’ I could sense things were changing.”

GLADY’S, 788 FRANKLIN AVE., 718-622-0249

After meeting on the job at popular Prospect Heights pizzeria Franny’s, three Crown Heights residents combined forces to open what owner-partner Michael Jacober calls their “dream restaurant”: “It entailed really delicious sandwiches, a wood-fired grill, well-made cocktails and a really interesting wine list—ones you couldn’t find at a neighborhood restaurant,”he says. Open since January, the airy location sports an L-shaped bar, open kitchen, exposed brick and teal Formica paneling. Chef-partner Nick Curtola uses greenmarket ingredients to create an eclectic menu filled with plates such as a hummus dish with chili oil, cracker-thin whole-wheat fry bread and shaved, pickled-whole carrots ($7),amélange of duck confit, grilled radicchio and parsnip puree ($17) and proper grilled-cheese sandwiches ($10). Stop by during happyhour for a Mexican michelada, a concoction using housemade habanero hot sauce ($4).

CATFISH, 1433 BEDFORD AVE., 347-305-3233

Neighborhood resident Maxx Colson and his partners began looking for a space to open up a Cajun restaurant back in 2011. They played around with Bushwick — but their hearts were set on staying local, where it was not yet oversaturated with other bars and restaurants, and the rent was cheap. They landed on Bedford Avenue, which Colson describes as more off the beaten path, and opened in January. “Honestly, it’s not too far from Franklin,” says Colson, “and in the years to come, Bedford is going to thrive with all sorts of new businesses.” Relax at a picnic table and chow down on an alligator meat-based Bayou burger ($14), or, for brunch, tuck into the pain perdu, a French toast made from extra thick sections of baguette battered in crème brulee ($12). Meanwhile, knock back a Voodoo Bloody Mary ($12), made from a mix of Crystal hot sauce, crab meat, bouillon and horseradish with a Guinness Stout float.

FRANKLIN PARK, 618 ST. JOHN’S PLACE, 718-975-0196

In 2007, Matthew Roff and his business partner Anatoly Dubinsky went to scout a potential bar location, then the site of an old garage. Within 30 seconds, they called the landlord and offered to rent the massive

indoor-and-outdoor space. “I thought it could be an amazing oasis in this neighborhood that had not transformed yet,” he says. And the bar — offering a selection of draft beers, cocktails — was bustling from Day 1. “The neighborhood was very thirsty,” says Roff, who has since expanded the space to more than double its original size, including a small eatery called Dutch Boy Burger (766 Franklin Ave., 718-230-0293).

NOSTRAND AVENUE PUB, 658 NOSTRAND AVE., 718-483-9699

Two blocks east of Franklin Avenue, Mitch Polo opened up this laid-back bar, which specializes in 20 craft beers, whiskey and cocktails. With towering trees shading the backyard and a comfortable, spacious indoor seating area, the 2-month-old bar has so far brought in a mixed crowd of recent college grads, young professionals and longtime residents. “There used to be a place on the corner that was around for many years, Starlight,” says Polo. “A lot of customers who missed that spot have become regulars here.”