They are known as the “ghosts of the sea” — for more reasons than one. Bonefish, almost translucent, appear as little more than flitting shadows beneath the water’s surface and disappear in the blink of an eye. The elusive fish take hours — and the expertise of a local fisherman — to find. They easily spook at a baited hook. And reeling in one of these tenacious creatures is like fighting with the devil. No wonder, then, that bonefishing is the ne plus ultra for many an angler.
Some of the world’s best bonefishing is found in the Bahamas, where warm, tropical waters and shallow flats serve as the fish’s favorite home. And the primo place to try your hand at bonefishing is at Deep Water Cay, a private island a short ferry ride from Grand Bahama Island, or about a half-hour by private plane from Fort Lauderdale.
Surrounded by 250 square miles of flats — with the ocean stretching out on one side and a secluded mangrove preserve on the other — the narrow, 2½-mile-long, car-free island has been a boutique fishing destination since the late 1950s. It was then that Palm Beach guide Gil Drake Sr. and Field & Stream editor A.J. McClane founded a club on its western end.
Over the past few years, that club has evolved into a full-fledged luxury resort, attracting celebrity anglers like Liam Neeson, Tom Brokaw and basketball All-Star Clyde Drexler. An $18 million renovation completed in October includes updates to the lodge — which houses the Blue Hole Bar, dining room, game room, fitness center and outdoor pool — as well as to the welcome center, the marina and the marina-side Tiki Bar.
Seven remodeled one- and two-bedroom fishing cottages — with exteriors painted a bright Bahamian blue and porches facing the even bluer sea — provide cozy accommodations (from $776 per person, meals included). Families and larger groups may prefer one of several recently built beach houses, with two to four bedrooms, airy verandas, full kitchens and spacious living rooms (from $1,313 per person).
No matter your choice, the resort always feels intimate, with no more than 36 guests at any given time.
While Deep Water Cay’s real lure is bonefishing, there’s also fly fishing, deepwater fishing and reef fishing for brilliantly colored triggerfish and red-spotted strawberry grouper. And you can take advantage of many watersports, too. Resident diving pro Phillip, for instance, will guide you to the best spots for seeing stingrays, starfish, sharks and fish galore while snorkeling or scuba diving — then into one of the brilliant-blue/green underwater sinkholes, known as a blue holes, just a stone’s throw from the island. There’s also kayaking, paddleboarding or sailing on a HobieCat. Biking and tennis are good options for landlubbers. And there’s always sunbathing by the gorgeous, oceanfront infinity pool.
Of course, there are many high-end Bahamian resorts that offer all of the above, so why Deep Water Cay? Maybe it’s the ambiance, which is more clubby/casual than stuffy/ostentatious. Pre-dinner drinks and apps at the Blue Hole Bar encourage mingling with other guests. Meals are simple but tasty affairs in the wood-paneled dining room, featuring island specialties like spiny Caribbean lobster and grilled fish. The staff — all locals — are efficient, yes, but also warm, friendly and more than happy to share their hidden talents.
Take barman Shirvin Tate, who not only shakes a wicked martini but is also an amazing singer (make a request!) and a champion conch-cracker (ask him for a demo — it’ll make your head spin). Even better, try your hand at hauling up and cracking your own conch — Shirvin will gladly offer a few tips, and might even show you how to eat “the pistol.” Don’t know what that is? You’ll have to head to Deep Water Cay to find out.
Info: deepwatercay.com