Having created highly stylized music videos — for everyone from Beyoncé to Britney to Gwen Stefani — Francis Lawrence knew one thing that would be key in his role as the new director of “The Hunger Games” franchise: He needed to call in fashion’s big guns.
Enter avant-garde stylist and costume designer Trish Summerville, who worked on the edgy “Girl With the Dragon Tattoo” film and sleek “Suit and Tie” music video with Justin Timberlake and Jay-Z. “Francis wanted to heighten a lot of things about the film and I did that in the clothing,” Summerville says. “I wanted it to be a bit darker, a bit moodier, just raising all the levels.”
In “Catching Fire,” the all-powerful Capitol is beginning to lose its grasp on the districts it controls. The citizens revolt and adopt Katniss (Jennifer Lawrence) — who won the Hunger Games in the first film by tricking the Capitol — as their symbol of hope. And the creative, distinct clothing reflects that optimism.
“The first movie, there were beautiful, vibrant colors but the silhouettes were all the same,” Summerville says. “For this one, I wanted to show much more of an individuality in people.”
Here’s how she managed to put her ingeniously creative stamp on the fantastical looks.
The almost-bride
Katniss (Jennifer Lawrence) and Peeta’s (Josh Hutcherson) wedding is derailed when they are sent to the arena for a second round of the Hunger Games. Then President Snow (Donald Sutherland) sends Katniss out for her pre-Game interview in the Tex Saverio dress she would have worn to her nuptials.
“[Tex] did these laser-cut feathers around the waist, in organza and taffeta,” says Summerville. “The bottom of the dress has volume, but is quite light, to spin and catch air.”
Gala glamour
For a big party scene, the outfits needed to send a message: Katniss, Effie (Elizabeth Banks) and Peeta may be dressed up, but they’re still representing their destitute district.
“I wanted [to evoke] the girl on fire and the mockingjay [Katniss’ symbol of hope and rebellion],” Summerville says of the black gown she designed. “I have feather shapes on her shoulders and flames at the hem.”
For Peeta, she mixed a polished jacket with tough leather pants.
“Effie looks like a bonbon,” Summerville says of this purple Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen dress worn by Effie. “She goes into the district and reaps those kids . . . She has to walk on her toes, because there’s no heel. And the base is a metal horseshoe!
“Effie is not proud of what she’s doing. So she needed to be uncomfortable in her clothing, like a penance. The waist is way, way too tight.”
‘Wood’ you wear it?
Each of the tributes wears an ensemble that represents his or her district. For Jena Malone’s Johanna, from District 7 — which specializes in lumber — this wasn’t easy.
“Jan Taminiau designed this gown,” Summerville says. “This is cork fabric that he made, and [the dress] also had these tiny little brass nails in it and the bottom is shredded chiffon, so it looks like falling leaves. I told Jena, ‘No matter what, you have to fit into this dress.’ Luckily, she’s tiny and it worked.”
Winged wonder
“This is a McQueen archive piece,” Summerville says of the dress Effie wears to District 12 to retrieve Katniss and Peeta. “It’s sculpted and shaped, so the hip comes out quite a bit. It almost looks like she has hangers under her dress, but it’s just sculpted that way. The neck is made of feathers that are painted to look like monarch butterflies. I had a matching hat made and the makeup artist glued butterflies along Effie’s arm.” The effect is very convincing. Explains Summerville: “When we were shooting, two monarch butterflies started flying through the shot towards Effie. And we were like, do they think it’s their mother ship?” she laughs. “It was just crazy.”