PARIS: Hail the return
Set in the magnificent Grand Palais, Hedi Slimane’s debut men’s collection for Saint Laurent was nowhere near as polarizing as his introduction to women’s wear – it was more of a slow burn than a call to arms. Unsurprisingly, he certainly wore his rock influences on his plaid flannel sleeves. But the collection was more than just grunge, rather a melding of different subcultures and gathering of the tribes. Balancing out the Fair Isle sweaters and ripped-to-oblivion jeans, were suave goth and glam moments – like black leather overcoats and tuxedo jackets.
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LONDON: Model Ford
Tom Ford, who counts the English capital as one of his residences, is firmly establishing roots with a flagship boutique at 201-206 Sloane Street. The just-opened 8,000-square-foot Knightsbridge spot boasts a four-room men’s section. One of Tom Ford’s strongest suits is his fragrances (our favorite is “Tuscan Leather”). To properly introduce the London takeover, a new fragrance, “Private Blend London,” will be exclusively available at the outpost.
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NEW YORK: Out of the closet
“A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk” is a triumphant and informative new exhibition. The pre-Stonewall era — featuring the controversial cross-dressing “mollies” and “men milliners” of the 18th century is documented. It shifts to the modern era, with groundbreaking fashion titans like Alexander McQueen and Yves St. Laurent, whose lesbian-chic benchmark Le Smoking was inspired by Marlene Dietrich.
Exhibition opens Sept. 13 and is free. Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street
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MILAN: Planting a flag in the motherland
Editors attending Milan Men’s Fashion Week in June had a must-go destination — Gucci’s new men’s flagship. Creative director Frida Giannini came up with the design concept of the austere store, which spans more than 5,300 square feet across three floors — perfect to showcase her light hearted and often colorful fall collection. The Brera-district boutique showcases “Lapo’s Wardrobe,” an exclusive capsule collection by Giannini and Fiat’s famously dapper Lapo Elkann. The upper floor houses an Americano Bar, where connoisseurs can rest their shopping bags alongside a cocktail or cappuccino.
