My Swedish friend was sullen. The summer months had finally arrived in Stockholm, but he was out of the country. “I just hope it’s not sunny there,” Isak lamented.
Summer’s oh-so-fleeting factor in Scandinavia is what makes it so treasured. And for Swedes more than anyone, missing even one sunny summer day in their homeland after suffering a bitter winter feels nearly criminal. Come summer’s nearly nonstop daylight, Sweden’s capital is at its best — the most glorious time to visit is between June and August.
Residents emerge like butterflies from their frostbitten cocoons, drawn to Stockholm’s many parks (it stays light till nearly midnight, with sunrise following shortly thereafter, around 3:30 a.m.), wooded walking paths and the clean waters of the archipelago stretching east to the Baltic Sea. The city is spread across 14 islands, and even in its densest parts the water beckons for a refreshing dip. Whether you’re passing through on a cruise ship or lingering longer, here’s where to head to make the most of Stockholm in the sun:
TERRACE HOPPING IN SÖDERMALM
Taking a fika break (the national tradition of getting caffeinated in cozy surrounds, often several times a day) is a Swedish institution, and some of Europe’s best café culture awaits in Stockholm’s inviting neighborhoods. And when it’s sunny and the café terraces are packed to the max, you might find yourself wondering if anyone in Stockholm besides the people bringing you food and drinks actually works.
The cafes of Gamla Stan, the medieval old town, are crowded with cruise passengers when ships are in port. Better to make the short walk to the neighboring island of Södermalm, Stockholm’s erstwhile working-class neighborhood that’s now, typically, its trendiest. At Café Rival (http://www.rival.se) there are views onto the leafy park at Mariatorget and locals take their fika with the sweet French patisserie treats on offer. For adult beverages with some of the best views in town, snag a table under a tree or umbrella on the sun-drenched terrace at Södra Teatern (sodrateatern.com), with live music most nights and vistas that take in the old town and the leafy island of Skeppsholmen across the water. Another favorite summertime Södermalm terrace is at Fåfängan bar and restaurant (fafangan.se), where you can sit among the Linden trees while watching the ferries cross to Djurgården. And for something more intimate, hit Café Bla Lotus (Katarina Bangata 21) in the SoFo district (south of Folkungagatan street) for delicious Asian food on a more diminutive sidewalk terrace.
MUSEUM ISLAND
Visiting some of Stockholm’s more than 70 museums may not be your idea of the best way to spend a sunny day, but the leafy, island locale of Djurgården — the city’s “Museum Island”— makes it extremely appealing for a stroll with culture breaks built in. Locals come here to jog, walk the dogs, play with their kids and picnic. And the most fun and practical way to reach the island is by public ferry from Slussen or Gamla Stan.
The big museum news of late is the May 2013 opening of Abba the Museum (abbathemuseum.com), the first permanent museum devoted to Sweden’s biggest musical export. It’s part of the new Swedish Music Hall of Fame. Among the highlights? Karaokeing along to “Dancing Queen” with a hologrammed version of the band. Make the short walk from here to the Vasa Museum (http://www.vasamuseet.se), where the enormous exhibition hall is engulfed by a ship that didn’t even make it out of the Stockholm harbor before sinking on its maiden voyage in 1628. Salvaged in 1961, it’s the world’s only preserved 17th-century ship and a real sight to behold. Families should add a visit to Skansen (skansen.se/sv) to the agenda, too. Half theme park, half open-air museum, it houses buildings (including an early 18th-century church) transplanted from all over Sweden and provides a fun walk-through look at the country’s history and architectural heritage (kids love Skansen’s Nordic animal park, too, for spotting seals and baby moose).
INTO THE ARCHIPELAGO
Come summer in Stockholm, the best kind of friend to have is one with a boat, any boat — and if it’s a sailboat prone to adventuring into the archipelago just east of the city, which counts 24,000 islands among it, all the better. Urbanites morph into instant sailors, and cruising the beautiful waters and stopping for picnics and sauna breaks on the rocky islands is a favorite way to while away the weekend.
No friends with boats? Hope still floats. It takes just under three hours to cruise with Strömma’s Cinderella boats (stromma.se) — the archipelago tourist boats and ferries — from the city center to the island of Sandhamn. Once here, you can bathe on the long sandy beach at Trouville (follow the signs to make the 20-minute walk from where the ferry arrives in town) and admire the colorful houses lining the cliffs. Strömma also offers the Thousand Island Tour day trip that last 11 hours and takes in several ports of call in the archipelago, with a delicious seafood buffet served on-board. And Finnhamn (finnhamn.se), just over two hours by ferry from the city, is another great little hideaway that’s less built up than Sandhamn and a sweet place to rent a rustic cabin for the night right on the water’s edge — perfect for soaking up the midnight sun and sauna sessions before cruising back to Stockholm.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Skeppsholmen (from $295, hotelskeppsholmen.com) brings the best of Stockholm’s nature-meets-city appeal. You’re a short walk or ferry ride to Gamla Stan, Södermalm and Djurgården, and you can swim on the small beach just out front.
Af Chapman (from $40, stfchapman.com) built in 1888 in England, is a ship-turned-hostel on the island of Skeppsholmen that’s home to one of the city’s most atmospheric rooms — the Captain’s Cabin, on the top deck, makes up for its small size with a terrace featuring near 360-degree city views.
And for a design hotel just a 5-minute walk from the central train station with a prime rooftop pool (open in the winter, too), head to the Clarion Hotel Sign (from $210, clarionsign.com).
CARD SHARP
The Stockholm Card can save you serious krona if you plan to use public transport a lot to get around and want to hit several of the city’s museums and attractions. For more information on this and other planning tips, check out visitstockholm.com.