You can get to Wilmington, Del., on Amtrak in under two hours — for less than what it costs to take a cab to the airport (as little as $41 each way, and save 30 percent on a companion fare when you book now through Dec. 16 for travel through Dec. 19). Better: You want to.
The largest city in the country’s second-smallest state has been getting a downtown tune-up for years, thanks to the nonprofit Wilmington Renaissance Corp. (real estate developers and local businesses) and the state-funded Riverfront Development Corp. Today there’s art, dining, outdoor activities, theater, sports (the Minor League Blue Rocks have a great little ballpark) and the 17,000-square-foot Delaware Children’s Museum (116 Orange St., delawarechildrensmuseum.org).
So hop off the train — it stops right downtown — and enjoy.
Christina Riverwalk
The 1.3-mile Christina Riverwalk — a paved path along the Christina River — is a 20-minute stroll down the revitalized lower Market Street area (LOMA) from Rodney Square, in front of the Hotel du Pont (or the Hotel, as locals refer to it). On your way, take note of the awesome French Second Empire-style Grand Opera House (818 N. Market St.), which opened in 1871. And check out the fabulous original 18th-century town hall, a red-brick, Federal-style structure that’s now the Delaware Historical Society, which offers walking tours by request, $5 (505 N. Market St.). Look for the Trolley, a replica 20th-century streetcar that runs down Market Street to the Riverwalk on a actual bus route and is just 25 cents per ride.
LOMA Coffee (239 N. Market St., lomacoffee.com)
Stop by LOMA for a Black Eye (brewed coffee with espresso), $2.50, or one of nine specialty lattes, $3.75. Mudslide (dark chocolate, caramel) ranks high in popularity, but there’s something for every sweet tooth with combinations like Peanut Brittle (caramel, peanut butter) and White Orange (white chocolate, candied orange.) There’s also breakfast, sandwiches and live music. Closed Sundays.
Harry’s Seafood Grill (101 S. Market St., harrysseafoodgrill.com)
When Gov. Jack Markell isn’t working from his desk in Dover, or his desk in Wilmington, or from the back seat of his SUV, he can often be found with other wheeler-dealers (we mean that in a good way, of course) lunching at Harry’s. He’s a fan of the Blackened Big Eye Tuna Tacos (with guacamole and black beans on soft flour tortillas), $13.25. Sounds good to us, but it’s hard to pass up anything crab — a kaiser roll sandwich, $15, perhaps? And be sure to get a seat overlooking the river, inside or out.
Riverfront Market (3 S. Orange St., riverfrontmarketwilm.com)
Cross under the train bridge and you’ll see the Riverfront Market, which opened in 2000 but is still adding new tenants. At lunchtime, tourists share the tables with locals out for Water Street Deli’s sandwich-chips-drink combo, $6.85, and Jeenwong’s Thai Cuisine’s homemade egg rolls, $1.95, a city favorite. Besides an actual little fruit and veg market, there’s Harry’s Fish Market + Grill, an offshoot of Harry’s Seafood Grill.
River Taxi (six docks along riverfront, 302-530-5069)
If you get sick of walking, hop on the River Taxi. It runs weekends from May 11 to June 9 and then starts its every-day-but-Monday summer schedule. $7 adults, $5 kids. Call ahead to be part of the one-hour narrated History Tour that highlights great moments in the area’s past, the Tuesday and Thursday Family Nights ($15 per family of four) or Wine Cruise Wednesdays ($15 per person).
Iron Hill Brewery (620 Justison St., ironhillbrewery.com)
Back on land (but still with a river view) it might be time for a Delaware drink. Iron Hill brews its own beer ($3 during 5-7 p.m. weekday happy hour), and hosts events with brews from other state crafters as well, including Dogfish Head, 16 Mile and Fordham. Shareable appetizers, from wings, $6.50, to hummus, $10.50, should please everyone.
DuPont Environmental Education Center (1400 Delmarva Lane, duponteec.org)
Accessible by a seriously elevated trail that offers an uncompromised view of the surrounding 212-acre Russell W. Peterson Urban Wildlife Refuge (a former dumping ground of I-95 construction), this is a wholly unexpected nature center. There are interactive exhibits (tadpole searching, guppy fishing), guided tours and programs like the
Urban Wildlife Walk, $15, which includes happy hour drinks. Closed Mondays.
Delaware Center for the Contemporary Arts (200 S. Madison St., thedcca.org)
You cannot pass up a seven-gallery museum with special exhibits like the “Taxonomy of Trash” — a collaboration by a sculptor, a photographer, a sound engineer, a videographer and a biologist — who consider the significance of garbage (through July 21). “Monocartoon,” a digital video art installation to open June 17, has NYC roots: the Taiwanese Cultural Foundation in New York City. Free. Closed Mondays.
More info: visitdelaware.com.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel du Pont (42 W. 11th St., hoteldupont.com)
When the Hotel du Pont opened in January 1913, there were sterling-silver combs and brush and mirror sets on every dressing table. A century later, those classic items have been replaced by flat-screen TVs and WiFi, but the luxurious vibe still exists, thanks to the outstanding original craftsmanship (nothing faux here) and ongoing upgrades, like a lobby face-lift in 2009, following an overall $40 million renovation in 1993. Rooms from $399. Enter from Market Street (the building takes up an entire square block) and you’ll find the DuPont Theatre (Broadway shows come here) and the corporate headquarters of the DuPont chemical company.
THE RAIL WORLD
National Train Day, May 11, commemorates the 1869 “Golden Spike” ceremony in Utah, when America was first connected by a transcontinental railroad. If you’re traveling by Amtrak that day (or hanging around a train station), you’ll likely pass by kids’ activities and giveaways, and might even have the chance to tour historic railcars. Many of Amtrak’s 500 destinations are participating. “Trains Matter” is the theme, celebrating the impact of trains on our communities (last year, 31.2 million trips were taken on Amtrak). nationaltrainday.com