Metro

Brooklyn’s Little Italy — changing, but still Italian

By Alex RushBensonhurst is still very much the Little Italy it has been since the 1950s. And some of the best classic Italian-American eateries and shops are between 70th and 80th streets on 18th Avenue, also known as Cristoforo Colombo Boulevard . in town, a record store with the latest in Italian pop music and a meat market that makes all its sausage in-house.be the butcher shop, but the cheese section. The pungent smell of the parmegiano-reggiano draws a line down the aisle.(7722 18th Ave. between 77th and 78th streets in Bensonhurst, no phone) We love all-you-can-eat buffets, and Mexican Ayometla has one of the best deals in the neighborhood. For $5.50, you can fill your plate with delicious braised meats like pork carnitas, along with heaps of rice and beans. The café-style eatery also offers quesadillas, tacos and our favorite cemitas, an overstuffed sandwich of meat, avocado and cheese.[7620 18th Ave. between 76th and 77th streets in Bensonhurst, (718) 331-3069] selection of Chilean wines, especially the Gato Negro brand that sells three bottles for $12. on a designer sequenced gown for close to $1,000, or find a $75 bargain that would be appropriate at any wedding.Queen Ann Raviolilong strands of pappardela and even squid-ink pasta. But the main draw is the ricotta-filled ravioli. The store makes boxes of them every day for customers to buy in bulk and heat up at home.Queen Ann Ravioli [7205 18th Ave. between 72nd and 73rd avenues in Bensonhurst, (718) 256-1061].the restaurantdelicious soups. Make sure to order a side of dumplings or pork steamed buns. They at eight for $4.75.. between 71st and 72nd streets in Bensonhurst, (718) 232-6191].Sas Italian Records the latest Italian pop sensation or take a trip back in time with records of 19th-century Neapolitan folk music. And just in case you still have that old boom box in the back of your closet, Sas sells hundreds of cassettes. the Aladdin-style genie bottles, tribal pottery, glass chandeliers and slightly creepy heirloom dolls. Hey, whatever floats your boat. [7109 18th Ave. between 71st and 72nd streets in Bensonhurst, (917) 662-1987].: Villabate Alba will give you a sugar rush of an epic proportion. This 40-year-old family-run bakery serves some of the best Sicilian pastries in town. The six glass display cases are stacked with cannoli, almond-flavored treats called cassatas and even custom cakes that could stand up against the ones on Ace of Cakes. Villabate also serves gelato the true Italian way: sandwiched in a brioche bun. Trust us, a sweet, doughy bun is way better than your typical ice cream cone. [7001 18th Ave. between 70th and 71st streets in Bensonhurst, (718) 643-1610]. Closed Mondays. if you

arush@cnglocal.com