Deserts were on designers’ minds yesterday. Not a reference that leaps to mind for spring, it’s true. But thankfully, the shifting sands were not to be taken in an apocalyptic sense — more in a seductive “Sheltering Sky” kind of way.
Diane von Furstenberg was definitely feeling midnight at the oasis. Drawing heavily from the gyp-set — that’s gypsy jet-set — crowd of Talitha Getty, she crossed it with her beloved Studio 54 sensibility for a disco Orientalist mash-up. The dhoti pants of fall have given way to a kinder, less diaper-ish version, a slouchy boyfriend cut, but made in silk or chiffon, pegged and rolled at the hem. Though von Furstenberg is queen of the dress, her best efforts were these pants worn with a cropped jacket, or the same jacket belted over a leopard-print cardigan and tiger-print blouse with a jacquard mini — grrrrreat.
Macrame dresses and boho chic maxis were fine, but among the standouts was a blazing orange silk tank dress decorated at the hem with leather paillettes like coins. Perfect for sunset on the Nile.
Herve Leger by Max Azria was also sandbagged. And you have to hand it to them — they manage to come up with new and interesting ways every season to work those bandage dresses.
Azria’s interpretation played out in the dusty bone hues of his knotted and woven dresses. The bohemian nomad direction moved on to washed and frayed denim, indigo tie-dying, crochet, braiding, batik and finally, black passementerie with jet beads. Hilary Duff and other front-row “It” girls would find more than enough head-turning choices here.
Donna Karan was thinking of a different kind of hot house over at her little sis label, DKNY: the bloom of a roof garden against a gray city skyline. Starting out with her favorite city-neutral palette of black or navy, her prints were urban graffiti florals scribbled onto jackets and pencil minis or boyfriend pants in silk. Keeping with the downtown artist theme, her more vibrant florals were abstracts of rose peonies, some picked out in sequins on a cropped jacket or a strapless silk dress. It all had the ease of pajamas — a new, more comfortable way of getting back to the suit again.
Victoria Beckham’s aesthetic is much more strict and severe. She has perfected the razor sharp Joan Crawford-style power dress. If you have the dollars and need something tailored and elongating, look no further. Her gowns for night are equally knock-out, particulary the red numbers with black insets.
While a clear trend emerging for spring is the very short skirt, Beckham still likes hers tight and just at the knee. In a shifting-sands world, it’s the kind of dressing that’s rock solid.
serena.french@nypost.com