Three wildly different restaurants are the subject of this documentary, which finds a common thread in their owners’ fierce dedication. The most high-profile of the trio is Alinea, the Chicago-based molecular gastronomy restaurant that is rated among the best in the world.
In his feature-film debut, director Joseph Levy shines in his depiction of chef Grant Achatz and his crew as mad scientists creating beautiful and tiny works of edible art.
More workmanlike are Breitbach’s Country Dining, a family-run institution near Dubuque, Iowa, and La Cocina de Gabby, a small Tucson-based Mexican eatery struggling to stay up and running. All have seen their share of adversity: Breitbach’s burned to the ground not once but twice in a year, while Francisco and Gabby Martinez in Tucson are hit with a foreclosure notice. Achatz describes his battle with tongue cancer, particularly terrifying for a chef.
Ultimately, the portrayal of community fostered by delicious food makes a sound case for patronizing independent eateries.